Professional aluminum metallized film manufacturer for over 13 years experience.

batarang from "arkham asylum" game - thin lexan sheet

by:Cailong     2019-08-22
batarang from \
I decided to make this Batarang type with plexiglass because)
B) easy to work
It has no grain and no chips or chips c)
It is transparent, which helps to align Part d)
It needs better metallic paint than wood, and finally e)
I don't touch the metal-Cut band saw.
Needless to say, you will not use this unconscious to knock on any mob.
Unless you want to see your efforts crushed, you probably won't throw it anywhere, either. Shopping list:.
093 "x11" x14 "music letter (or Plexiglass)
SheetFurniture joint nut, nut "-
Tighten four nd disc magnets with 20 threaded x 3/8 head machines. 47” x . 11” (12mm x 3mm)
Required Tools: Deal with sawStraight arc filesPower drillvarous drill bits including a half-"shovel woodborer" Liquid Nail "clear silicone adhesivecyanoacryate superglueTwo part epoxy resinsandpaper the Lexan plate is too thin, so the first thing I do is cut it in half, then stick the two together and get a sheet of 11 "x 7" x 0. 186” thick.
One sentence on the glue: I used three kinds of glue in the project, Liquid Nail silicone adhesive, two parts epoxy resin and acrylic strong glue.
When the various pieces of batarang are filed and formed, there will be a lot of pressure to spy and liquid nails will fall off after a period of time.
It doesn't matter because I have to take it apart several times in order to correct the error.
When everything was ready to stick together at the end, I used an acrylic acid known for not being tolerant of mistakes.
If you stick these two sheets of paper together, it is better to use strong glue.
I found a picture of Batarang online and printed it out as a template at the size I wanted.
Since I'm going to have a hinged Batarang, I 've only used one wing as a template for two and a half parts, which helps to be symmetrical.
It also helps friendly Instructure users, InfiniTTTy, and then draws my template into a beautiful one.
Png file, which you can find at the bottom of this page.
Then, I cut out three pieces of "ring" with a saw.
If you're going to cut with a band saw, make sure you have a good dust removal effect-unlike the sawdust, the plexiglass dust gets hot enough to catch fire.
I refer to these three parts as "fixed wing", "rotating wing" and "rear wing ".
The fixed wing and back plate will be connected together to form the "rear assembly", which is half of the Batarang you have in your hand.
This is right.
Hand it to Batarang, but you can easily-handed one.
The fixed wing just cancels the rotating wing of the circular axis, and the rear piece is just the center of Batarang, where the magnet will be placed.
The next step, after smoothing the rough edges with files to make them more beautiful and easier to handle, is to make these three pieces Real to each other.
The easiest way to do this is to make the backing as perfect and symmetrical as possible, decide the direction it will face, and put the other two wings on it.
Mark the center of the back piece with points.
First, try to align the rotary wing with the back panel and correct the rotary wing where needed using the file.
Once the overlapping place matches, mark the rotating wing with the overlapping point.
Fix the rotary wing in place with a small clip or dress and shape the fixed wing until all three parts are neatly combined.
It's time to tilt the edges of the wing blades.
Mark a line parallel to the edge of the wing and then form the blade using a flat file.
Since you are using two plexiglass glued together, it is easy to mark your progress through the center connection (
But since you don't make the blades that actually work, you don't need to file all the way to the center of the wing thickness).
Take some time on this: a good consistent Beeline is important for the final look of Batarang, though the paint will help if you can't manage it.
Upon completion, you can glue the back piece to the fixed wing to form the rear assembly, half of the Batarang you have in your hand (
Let's say you are right handed).
When the glue dries, the place where they overlap is finally filed and polished to make them completely real.
Now do the axle of Batarang.
Tie the two wings together in the final position and drill a guide hole in the center.
Separate the wing again, drill a hole large enough on the rotating wing to accept the machine screws fairly tightly (
15/64 "is correct for me).
Then a large enough hole is drilled through the fixed wing assembly to accept the furniture joint (
3/8 "perfect).
The connector needs to turn smoothly but not loose.
I then bury the machine screw hole on the rotary wing and use the large 3/8 "bit to recessed the other side of the hole to accept a small part of the furniture connector.
This is because the furniture connector is a bit too long and I don't want to fold up when the wings are loose.
I can drop the connector a little too, but it seems to be easier and works fine.
Now, when batarang is turned on, place the magnet that keeps it in place.
Tie batarang to the final position and drill a pilot stand in the part where the backing and rotating wings overlap.
The exact location of this hole does not matter, just make sure it is not too close to any edge.
Then expand the hole with a "wooden drill tower.
I used a "because my magnet is a little smaller than it, but please adjust the hole to fit in if you use a magnet different from mine.
Separate the holes on the wings with tape (
So you don't stick your wings together.
Stick the magnet in the right position
I used two for each wing.
Make sure to align North/South correctly so the wings don't reject themselves!
The magnet won't be under too much pressure, so I used two parts of epoxy in this work, which also fills in the gaps around the magnet.
You can assemble Batara now.
I stuck a small plastic part on the head of the machine screw to cover it.
You can still take apart Batarang by unscrewing the furniture connector from the back.
That's why you want to make the screws fairly tight.
By doing so, you're almost done!
It just needs any final molding and filing, a little bit of polishing the edges and you can paint.
I used a satin black spray paint specifically for plastic, as well as a bronze model paint for the wing bevel.
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