build a greenhouse with solar powered ventilation - polycarbonate roof panels
I live in zone 17 of Sunset Climate (San Francisco)
So I want to plant a lot of things, but I can't grow them because of the climate.
My basil scrawled and my eggplant withered. . .
I was lucky enough to get 2 or 3 small tomatoes per plant.
I 've always wanted a greenhouse, but all the prefabricated ones that look big enough are out of my price range.
Then one day I read the port freight flyer carefully and found a 10'x 12' greenhouse for less than a thousand dollars.
I spent some time searching Google for the comments on the above greenhouses and it seems terrible to use them out of the box.
One described it as a box kite, and one day it sailed out of her garden happily.
But then I found more instructions.
Strengthen the structure.
On a hot afternoon in August, I drove north to the nearest HF store.
I went out with the greenhouse for less than $600. 00 (
Use a regular 20% discount coupon).
I chose the most sunny part of the yard with southern exposure in the greenhouse.
It will take about 20 days from breaking ground to building a greenhouse.
Tool fixture (
Helps keep greenhouse parts during assembly)
Frame square, tape measure, level drill and drill bit screwdriver
Flatten the emt support)
Hand saw material 10x12 greenhouse kit from Port freighter weather foil tape (
Seal the end of all polycarbonate panels)
12 tubes of transparent Alex plus latex filler (
Glaze and seal the plastic greenhouse panel)
200 hex washer head, hex drive, no.
Month, inch long, no.
3 point size, self-drilling screws and 200 10 Fender washers.
Fix the plastic plate on the greenhouse frame.
1/4x1 according to your configuration needs.
Increase the 5 inch T Bolt of the internal corner support plate (
I made mine by grinding the head down on the regular 1/4 20 tpi x 1.
5 inch cover screws)
Pressure treated wood 2-2x12x12', 2 -2x12x10', 4 -4x4x8'1/2 x 7.
5 "galvanized machine bolts, nuts and washing machine 3" 8 bags of concrete for the ironing plate on the deck for 6-20 in. x 13 in.
Heavy shelf stand in gray (cross bracing)3 -
Emt pipe of 3/4 "x10" steel (cross bracing)
The optional material breaks down the granite for floor wood, screws and padding for water culture trays.
Pump for circulating water culture system.
I installed sinks and vertical solar panels and 12 V fans on the hillside, as well as retaining walls and decks.
The foundation of the greenhouse consists of a pressure-treated 2X12 s attached to the edge of the retaining wall on one side and a pressure-treated 4x4x8 'column set in concrete 3 on the other side of the ground A 10 'x12' box is formed on the ground, the center runs a 2x12 horizontally.
At the top of the 10' x12' box, I have attached the pressure of the 2x6 tablet-wise.
On the top of the 2x6, I set up the steel base attached to the greenhouse, which says "buried underground" on the instructions ".
I then went on to use the very good instructions provided by the greenhouse.
Until I get to the installation section of the Polycarbonate panel.
Here is an excellent note for building a port cargo 6x8 greenhouse and the same principle applies to the 10x12 greenhouse I built.
I read a lot of reviews that talk about the panels that take off and land a few miles away.
First of all, I sealed the ends of all panels with the best aluminum belt I can find, I used aluminum belt for extreme weather, which can prevent algae and gunk from entering the panel and messing with the panel
When installing the panel, I put all my panels in the clear Alex plus caulk and fixed the panel in place using the trendy clip provided until the filling heal, then I use the hex head self-tapping screw with the Fender washer (
Check in Alex Plus caulk)
Twist the panel to the aluminum beam (
I made 3/4 wide x 1/4 thick wood strips and put them behind the polycarbonate panels in some parts of the greenhouse.
I haven't lost a panel so far.
Save the hinges that slide to the top of the roof and throw away the rest.
The windows are designed to leak water.
Go out and get 4 pieces of 1/4 "plexiglass, 2 larger than the window/vent ".
Make a 1/2 spacer with hardwood floors and use the spacer to attach plexi to the hinge.
I used the auto opener on the window/vent to prevent overheating (
Univent auto opener standard-Lifts 15 Lbs).
I have provided 3 cross brackets using rack holder and EMT pipe.
T bolts fix the bracket on the greenhouse.
I also use some scrap aluminum to add backing at the end of each gable.
I connect the water ploughing tray to the wall of the greenhouse with the angle brackets, which adds the benefit of reinstallation
Strengthen the greenhouse wall.
T bolts are very convenient and after the construction is completed, no matter where you want to install the bracket.
Also make sure your steel base is firmly secured to your base.
Simple concept, the solar panel is connected directly to the fan and the fan continues to work after the sun comes out.
I added 2 sets of solar panels (
As shown in the first picture)
Connect directly to the 12 volt fan for ventilation.
The fan is placed on a box I frame on the floor and the outside of the box is 2x12.
I bolted 2 4x4x12 pillars onto the retaining wall next to the conservatory and attached the solar panels to them.
The theory behind me is that in that low shade, the air outside may be colder.
Fans from Amazon are an endless breeze.
Solar panels come from Port freight, but with a little research you can get better panels elsewhere.
They have a large number of instruments on this site, detailing the subject of the water culture method.
So I'm going to touch on some of the details of my system, and in the middle of the page, there are some details that are not adequately mentioned.
The water ploughing system is a circulating shallow water culture system based on the gas stone in the reservoir with a bed of 5.
It is 5 inch deep and the water level is about 3 inch.
I used a 275 gallon IBC tote bag on a reservoir, and the large capacity reservoir provides a buffer for many water ploughing problems, for example, PH and temperature fluctuations, I don't change the water during the season, I just add in and watch PPM nutrient levels, pump 620 GPM port freight, pad EDPM pond pad 40 mil, the drain between the bed and the bed is 2 "ABS partition fittings-
Set the water level from the pipe nipple cut on the 2 "ABS pipe-
The nipple is a sealed lanocote (Lanolin)
For easy removal and replacement, there are mini towers under each tower between the drain pipes.
Netpots is 3 "and the growth medium is Hydroton expanded clay.
I used the hole saw to cut the netpot hole on the top of the mahogany and save the wheel to make the plug for the unused hole.
I used JR Peters nutrition.
I have had great success with cantaloupe, Basil, eggplant, tomato and Douban.
The seed is a little rockwool (
One thing I have to do is insulation the reservoir.
To prevent the weather from being too cold.
The pump and the gas stone provide some heat.
When you are full of water, the important points of water culture filter your reservoir water.
I used the charcoal filter for the RV. I'm (
Amazon Camco 40043 taste pure water filter with hose Protector).
Observe your pH value with litmus test paper.
This affects nutrient absorption.
Less than 5 points
Will lead to shutdown.
Shooting PH 5. 7 to 6. 2.
Attention water temperature.
The ideal temperature is 68 degrees Fahrenheit.
But the range from 65 to 75f is valid and my usually runs at 64F and at that temperature I can get 11 ppm of oxygen.
I measure my nutritional level with a simple PPM meter.
High dissolved oxygen levels in my system allow me to keep PPM below 600.
Less oxygen requires more nutrition.
Pay attention to your oxygen.
Make sure your plants get enough oxygen.
At any time, the water is splashing, bubbling and running, and it absorbs oxygen.
According to my oxygen test kit, high oxygen levels promote aerobic bacteria and protect your system from all sorts of nasty things.
Hach 146900 Oxygen test kit)
One exception to the "requires a lot of oxygen" rule is lettuce. . .
It may grow in orange juice.
The Polycarbonate board has no UV protection.
Most of the walls are still clear, but the roof is already yellow and needs to be replaced within 3 or 4 years.
The rest of the greenhouse is great, no problem.
I don't plant anything in the soil of the greenhouse anymore because I have had a huge whitef infection in the past.
I'm pretty sure the wet soil is the breeding ground for my whitef.