build a lightsaber - white polycarbonate
So you decided to take the last step to embrace the force.
Is your path going along the light or the dark side? (
I heard there are cookies on the dark side).
Which side are you on, how are you fighting next?
Worth the sword.
This means that you should be able to wave this sword and use it to attack things and other lightsabers without worrying about actually breaking the lightsabers.
You may destroy something else, but the lightsaber will remain intact.
* The total cost of the project is $60 to $1,000.
The cost range is wide, depending on how crazy your design is.
The lightsaber I built for this instructable costs about $160.
Note 1: This structure is very text intensive.
Note 2: most of the parts used in this tutorial come from custom saber stores (TCSS).
I do not belong to them and I am not employed by them.
I'm just a customer.
This is my past creation and experiment.
I used to have a 7x12 metal lathe.
You need a lathe for the part.
Go to the local hardware store to buy parts (
Certain parts will not be available in your local hardware store and must be ordered specifically).
If you have a local electronics recycling store nearby (
Electronic gold mine, weird stuff)
Go there and look around the old electronics.
Collect anything that looks "cool", geek, future, funky, HI
Technology, or looks useful later.
Go to the custom military knife shop to buy professional parts: or if the parts don't make sense now, the ultrasound will also go, don't worry, I will explain each part of the lightsaber in detail in the next steps.
36 inch long polycarbonate (pc)
Tube, wall thickness 1 inch outer diameter (OD).
The wall thickness should be 1/8.
This is the blade.
1 x end cap of Pc tube (blade tip)
1 x Blade film (
The movie Corbyn is great)
Reflective material with a diameter of 1 x less than the inner diameter of the PC tube.
Sword Handle: 1 x blade/LED bracket (That is the transmitter)1 x 1.
5 inch chrome sink tube.
1 or 2 x sink tube adapter 12 inch long.
1 connect the blade bracket to the sink tube, and if you choose the saddle bracket after machining, connect the 2 to the sink tube.
1 x switch or button 1 x pomel or end cap what other parts do you want to connect to hilt body --
There are Groove parts, plates, gold decoration, jewelry, tapered parts, leather. BE IMAGINATIVE.
Make it your own characteristic.
Electronic courage: 1 x high-power LED (
Luxeon III, K2, V, rebel,
Seoul P4 or any LED with more than 60 lumens output).
Decide if you want to buy an LED that gives out a certain color or a white LED and use a color filter.
In theory, the lightsaber I built for this manual should be able to output more than 300 lumens. . . In theory.
You will see later how I did this.
The 1 x compatible optical lens focuses the LED to 10 degrees or less.
1 x method of controlling the current entering the LED
For example, a Buck Parker was used.
Resistance can be used, but this method is less efficient.
Sound: optional, but without it, you only have one stick on.
At least consider taking the board out of Hasbro toys.
Battery, battery seat, speaker, soundboard, lots of screws, vibrating motor, Crystal Room and wires. Tools.
45 W or higher soldering iron and some high quality soldering iron.
Hack saw rotary tool (Dremel)
With grinding roller, cutting
Wheels, grinding and shaping tools.
Profile screw tap set screw driver Allen wrench metal or epoxy Elmers Glue chart paper pencil knife sand paper hammer glue for drill and drill jeweler, of course, first consider what your lightsaber will look like.
What color of blade "How long is the blade?
How long is Hilt?
Do you want it to look complicated? Or is it just a normal Chrome flashlight?
Where do you want to put the button or switch?
To help you use this useful tool called modular Hilt system (MHS)
Builder: not only can it help you visualize your concept, it can also provide you with a list of parts.
Here is an example of hilt created in MHS Builder.
The blade is made of four (4)parts;
End cap (blade tip)
A small anti-disc, optical diffusion film.
You can make your own blades or pre-order them
Made from TCSS: Or you can order the prefabricated blade with ultrasonic: Details for each part: the PC tube should be 1 "OD with a wall thickness of 1/8" and clear.
It should be 30-36 inches long.
Longer than this, the blade is harder to use and the light is uneven.
The end cap and the counter disc are at the end of the PC tube.
I used adhesive foil on the reflective disc with a small hole in the middle.
I then stick it to the bottom of the end cap and stick the end cap to the PC tube.
You can also buy a small bag of various round mirrors at the local hobby store.
The only problem with using a glass mirror is that you use a glass mirror inside the Duel Blade.
The end cap with reflective material does two things;
Give your blade a rounded end and reflect some light back to the blade to make it brighter.
The diffusion film I used was the "Corbin" film.
This is named after the user name Corbin Das of the person who used the perfect diffusion film.
Without this movie, the clear PC tube will let the light inside through and it will not look very bright.
The film reflects and spreads light for bright and uniform blades.
Put the film in the same tube as the length of the PC tube and slide the film into the PC tube.
The film will then unfold a little and press on the inner wall of the PC tube.
Static adhesion will keep the film in place within the PC tube.
The Corbin movie was purchased from TCSS.
Project description: "The special refraction quality of this Blade film makes them produce the optical illusion of the central beam within the blade when illuminated.
This "core" is surrounded by a more colorful "Halo", which seems to gradually tilt towards the tip. " -
When the corbin film is purchased, the TCSS specifies the blade diameter and wall thickness.
Then specify if one, two or four Corbin films are required.
I used two layers on the green lightsaber in the video.
TCSS sent me enough film to cover the blade 40 inch long.
It adjusted the length of my 34-inch blade.
Note: When wrapping the film, make the area as free as possible from lint and dust.
Ultrasaber also sells white polyester blades.
Blade film is not required!
The blade holder is the transmitter part of your light sword handle
Business is over.
It can be made into a variety of styles and shapes, but it needs to have a hole in it for the blade to enter.
It has three purposes: 1.
It holds the blade firmly. 2.
It holds and aligns the LED and optics under the blade to light it up. 3.
What keeps our LED from burning out is the radiator.
Choose from the different styles on this page: mine is LED blade holder style with a stack of rubber o-3
Cover the ring and part of the sink tube above.
Need to drill a small hole somewhere in the middle.
Then, in order to accept the machine screws, that hole needs to be dug.
Then, the screw needs to be put into that hole so that the end hardly sticks out the inner wall of the blade holder.
This screw is the blade retention screw.
Now, when you make the blade retention screw, you want it to be small and inconspicuous.
Or you want it to blend with the rest of your hilt design.
Thumb screws work well when fused with the design. a small 6-
32 screws work well due to inconspicuous.
In my case, the blade retention screw was incorporated into the brass accent that decorated the sword handle. (
Image of blade holder licensed by TCSS)
This accounts for most of you.
This is not only the place where you can add a lot of personal styles, but also the location of most of the internal parts.
How spacious or crowded the area is, in fact, depends on how long the main body is and whether you use a machined aluminum part or a chrome sink tube.
The main body can choose a single aluminum pipe from here (mhs main body)
These are 7 inch long, less than 1. 5" in diameter.
They are machined and have a female thread at the end that allows the connection of other MHS parts such as the blade holder, the saddle and the extension.
They are also ideal for the inside of the chrome sink pipe.
The switch has a pre-drilled hole.
This provides a second spacious interior space for electronics.
Or the combination of the above and the part here (mhs extensions)
: The extension can be ordinary, ground, slotted, ribbed or tapered to achieve a narrower outer diameter (choke).
They added length and design elements to your hilt.
It can provide you with extra space for more batteries or give your hilt a completely different look and feel.
If you really want to, you can build the entire hilt body with a few extensions.
However, the interior space of these parts is very limited.
There is little space inside some extensions to pass through the wires.
Something to Remember.
Like the main body, these sizes are perfect for sliding in a chrome sink pipe.
Or a combination of chrome sink pipes and this piece (
Mhs sink adapter)
: There are two uses for the sink tube.
It can be used as a main tube or as a sleeve/covering that slides through MHS parts.
The sink tube is used as the main tube, so the internal space is maximum because the pipe diameter is 1.
5 "the walls are much thinner than the machined aluminum MHS body or MHS extension.
With this method you will have a smooth chrome body tube where you can add design elements like screws, jewelry, leather strips, handles, cuts and slots.
Just use your imagination.
Or the sink pipe can be covered-a sleeve -
Aluminum body tubes and extension pieces purchased from TCSS.
You can use the MHS body and extension above to build your sword handle, then cut and shape your chrome sink tube and let it slide over the sword handle to add extra depth and design
The contrast between aluminum and polished chromium is also quite amazing.
When using all three of the above components, you can get endless combinations of cuts, slots, extensions, and bodies.
All you need is a dremel, some files, a drill bit and some screws.
Or you can shape your sink tube into a main body and a covering.
To do this, take your 12 "sink tube and select a section that will be cut into design and keep the rest intact.
This is the method used by the example lightsaber in the video.
For hilt I use for this instructable I use a combination of extension, 2 sink tube adapters and 1 sink tube I cut them into the design I want
The sink tube part is used as a body tube and the part is used as a covering.
So the next step is to show you how to cut the sink tube into your own personal design.
Cut the sink tube to the desired length.
Get your chart paper next.
Cut out a large enough part to wrap the sink tube with a section that may have 1/8 "overlap.
Now take the paper off and draw your cut design.
When you are satisfied with your design, wrap the paper back to the tube to check for fit and beauty. Looks good?
Remove the paper again and apply a thin layer of elmers Glue to the sink tube.
Stick your chart paper back.
Wait for the glue to dry.
Once the glue is dry, take Dremel out and cut-off wheel.
Carefully cut off unwanted metal from the sink tube.
Do not cut directly on the drawing line you draw on paper.
About 1/8 from it.
The vise or pipe clamp does help during this process.
Once the design is roughly cut out, switch to your grinding roller and grinding bit.
Slowly, carefully grinding is getting closer and closer to the drawing line.
Remember, you can always have a little more rest, but you can't put it back if you cut too much or grind too much.
For complex areas of your design, please use the metal file to carefully remove the metal.
Polish edges with course sandpaper to remove burrs (
Metal fragments hurt a lot).
Polish the edges with fine sandpaper to round the edges so you don't cut them yourself.
When you are satisfied with your work, remove the paper and clean the tube with warm soapy water.
Now you have a sink tube that doesn't look like it should be connected to the bathroom sink again.
You should have something that looks like an artwork, or at least a machine.
Put your sink tube adapter (s)
And slide it into the sink tube, with the threaded part facing the edge of the sink tube.
With your sharpie pen, mark the sink tube with dots in the position where the screw hole will appear.
Remove the sink adapter.
Drilling is slightly larger than the screws used in the sink tube.
The sink tube adapter is 10-
32 machine screws.
We only need two holes on the sink tube to fix the adapter to the sink tube.
Put the adapter back in the sink tube and fix it with screws.
Test and install hilt parts.
Hilt is combined together but there is no video of an electronic product (
Besides crystal chamber LEDs)
: Collect parts randomly.
Put them in the bin.
Go and get some thumb screws, LED baffles, leather nails/nails, machine screws, etc.
What can you think of to dress up your body.
How bright do you want it to be?
Do you want a voice?
How about some extra things like fake electronics, crystals, feedback motors or key LEDs?
It may be expensive at this time.
Let's break it down in the next few steps: * basically no sound * basically advanced LEDcontrol * basically sound * intermediate (with sound)*High Level (with sound)* Premium (
Customizable sound and MP3 player! )
Take me as an example, me and three (3! ! ! ! )
The rebels are as close to a star as possible. All are green.
This was purchased from Xwingband, which has invested in the production of these custom installed Rebel led.
Driven by a buck ice hockey and three LiIon batteries.
I think every rebel will send out 130 lumens at 700 mAmp.
I have three so I think I have more than 300 clear.
More lumens equals brighter blades.
I was told that my blade hurts the eyes when you look too long. A fourth Li-
Ion batteries are used to power the soundboard and accent lights.
The sound came from a board of 616.
There is a crystal room and a feedback motor.
Here's the look of functional electronics outside hilt: try to get as many technical specs as possible on the LED you want to use.
Here is a good example: read the data sheet.
Important Information About LEDs is: 1.
Minimum, normal, maximum forward voltage. 2.
Minimum, normal, and maximum amps 3.
Lumen light output at minimum, normal, and maximum current 4.
Heat management requirements 5.
Size and installation method.
Note that the forward voltage in white, blue and green is higher than in red, yellow and yellow.
Also note that the response of the led to the current is greater than the response to the voltage.
Power your LED with current (milliamps)
Close to the data table status, the best performance will be provided.
Figure 1 shows a star on my 3 rebels.
In addition to the challenge of how to power these beasts, there is an optical solution.
Xwingband offers a solution that is as close as possible to the installation of the diverter and provides a large enough opening below that covers almost all 3 rebels.
Figure 2 and Figure 3 show lense (collimator)
It is usually installed on a star with 1 LED transmitter.
What is not shown is the optical bracket that holds the center of the lens. Basic -No Sound.
For the high power LED we have: luxon Star in III, K2, V and Rebel; Cree; Seoul.
There are other ones, but I'll let you do the research.
No matter which LED you choose, you have to make sure it has an optical element that can be placed in a very small space inside our blade holder.
For basic lightsaber without sound, we need high power LED (s)
, Optical, battery, resistor or Buck, battery stand and switch. That's it. Easy.
This method leaves a lot of space inside the door bar.
Can be used for space with a larger battery capacity or a larger voltage.
If you want a very bright lightsaber, this will be the best way to achieve this.
"Class III laser warning" bright color = higher voltage and current requirements.
Also, I need to manage the heat. e.
No sound and speakers mean more space for the battery and larger radiators.
You also have to find the right switch.
For the basic soundless lightsaber, you need a switch that has to be pressed/flipped/moved to turn it on and then press/flipped/moved again to turn it off.
This can be the slider, toggle, Press/press or lock switch.
You must consider the size of the switch, the mounting hole requirements, the voltage and amplifier ratings, and the appearance.
About battery selection: the standard 9 volt battery will not cut it off.
You need something that is quite capable (
Measured in mAhmilliamp hours)and voltage.
The best option is to top up. --
Three AA NiMH is a great option to power a single LED.
MAh for most rechargeable AA batteries is above 2000. --
The next option is the battery pack for the RC remote and the air gun.
These also tend to NiMH technology and can be purchased in different mAh/voltage/size configurations.
Using the battery pack means that you can install the charging port on the lightsaber and simply plug the lightsaber into the charger to charge. --
The latest technology is lithium ion (Li-Ion). Li-
The ion battery encapsulates a large amount of energy density in a small space, which means that the Li-
The ion battery outputs the same voltage as the 3 NiHM AA in series (3. 6v).
So you can buy a battery to power 1 LED.
This makes wiring simpler and saves space.
Matters needing attention about Li
Ion batteries are very sensitive to overcharge and discharge.
Give a Li-
They will explode into fireballs.
It won't charge again.
To prevent these two situations, there are special chargers and protection circuits.
Normally, the circuit is built into the battery. Li-
The diameter and length of the ion battery are specified in millimeters.
Therefore, the size of 16340 means that the battery is 16mm in diameter and 34mm in length (
Remove a trailing zero
Thank you for catching that doctor. dB).
A 14500 is AAbattery of the general size (14mm x 50mm).
Current control: we have two ways to control the current entering the LED. 1)
There is a resistor between the LED and the battery. 2)
Hockey with Buck.
If resistance current limiting method is adopted, the correct resistance required to limit the current entering the LED must be calculated.
Get it wrong, you get either a faint light or a fried LED.
Go to this site and calculate the right resistance: If you use the buckpark method then you just need to buy the buckpark closest to the LED mA.
Buck has 350 mA, 700 mA and 1000 mA.
350 has hardly been used in our hobbies.
Once again, take a look at the typical mA of the LED of your choice and match it with one of the buckparker above.
The more advanced lightsaber is built on the main body on the page of LED, current limiter, switch and battery.
Only one step of the light without sound is to have the controller board supply power to the high power LED.
This board is also the innovation of Corbin Das.
Brief description: * board tilt the light up and down.
* Flashing effect * flashing when conflicting and flashing when locked.
* Can handle input voltage up to 30 v *, can be configured in an instant, can also integrate the locking switch * into the sound board (hasbro or MR).
What do all the above mean?
Added some flexibility to our design.
We can use different high power LEDs, different types of switches, different voltages.
We can even configure the appearance of the emitted light.
There is also the option to connect it to the sound card.
If you have a budget, you can buy plastic lightsaber toys (with sound)
In your big local store (
Tar *, ToysR *, etc).
Use it to power the LED and provide sound.
Below is an example of Hasbro toy electronics powering red/blue/green (RGB)LED.
In this video, the purple blade lightsaber is using the Hasbro toy sound board: How did I get purple? Well, I put 4.
Through the sound board 8 V, separate the positive line entering the led-
One wire of the blue LED and the other wire of the red LED becomes a resistor (
Remember that red requires less voltage than blue, and the resistance is also small).
Both LEDs use normal negative leads.
Green is not used.
Red = purple.
See picture 2 for information on how to connect the Hasbro toy circuit board.
In order to obtain higher sound quality and better light control, people stripped the electronic products from the Force FX Lightsaber previously produced by the main replica (MR).
MR lost his license for the Star Wars brand, but the Force FX product line was acquired by Hasbro.
The most popular sound card is one of the products that are now discontinued, called Force FX Lightsaber building suit
Also known as 616 or "Joe Jedi ".
It was sold exclusively on Radio Shack. Why this one?
Just flick the switch and you can change from a Jedi-based lightsaber sound to a Sith (
Yes, there is a difference).
Heck, this set allows you to switch the blade color from red to green.
I know the only place they can buy them right now is Ebay.
I bought two refurbished ones for $40.
The MR sound card can only handle up to 6 volts.
You blow it up again.
The board needs a locking switch similar to the basic lightsaber.
Using this board to power your LED will limit your choice of high power LED.
Basically, this board cannot be done separately if the LED you choose needs a forward voltage of more than 6 volts (
For example luxon V, or multiple LEDs like me).
This is the board I use. Huh? ? I know. . .
I just said that this board can't be handled for more than 6 volts.
I need 9 of my 3 rebels. 45 volts.
In fact, the voltage my three Li put out
The ion battery is at 10. 8v.
How does this work?
With electronics for some applications, you can adjust the power that goes into the board and let the board provide sound.
Then let the rest of the electricity into buckpark.
In this way, you can let the MR board get a voltage of less than 6 volts, and the LED gets the voltage it needs (7. 2, 10.
6, 12 volts what).
Another way is to use a double knife/double switch with two battery packs.
One battery pack with lower voltage to MR plate and another battery pack with higher voltage to buck/resistor/led.
By pressing the button, two different voltages are sent to two circuits isolated from each other.
This is my route.
Hardcore lightsabers are busy making other sound card solutions in the medium termto-
The price range is high.
Overtone Board 2.
More people are currently working on new motherboards.
If this trend continues, there will be several options soon.
Overtone boards can be found here: TCSS are also for sale.
Brief description: * The motherboard supports most of the high power LEDs available * with overspeed features, additional amplifiers can be sent to the LED *, supporting multiple low power key LEDs.
* There are multiple sound options * auxiliary buttons that support clash lock and blaster block.
The wiring of the board is very customizable and feature-rich.
The manufacturer of the board provides instructions on how to connect all the boards.
As mentioned earlier, the Ultrasaber website also sells complete blades (
If you don't want to build it yourself or finish hilts).
If you have enough money and luck, then the crystal focus is the way you are going.
You can see the link of crystal focus: "Electronic Module" from here.
To remind you, these boards are expensive and of very limited quality.
Erv is sold in batches of about 80 boards and sold out in about 5 minutes.
He is currently in version 4. x.
To let you know what this board can do, here is a link to Crystal Fox 3. 0 Manual (
I put the file on a different website so as not to overload the website of Erv).
Introduction: * CF can handle different types of high-lumen led.
In addition, it can supply power to multiple low-power accent LEDs and make them flash in different ways.
* It is possible to control the flashing of the main LED when it is gradually powered on, gradually powered off, flashing and conflicting.
* Auxiliary buttons can be used to add additional features such as blaster blocking and lightsaber conflict locks.
* The real power of CF is the customizable sound "font ".
Basically you can create or download your own unique lightsaber sound.
The main mixer for the lightsaber sound font is NOVASTAR.
Here is a link to his YouTube channel to see many things he can do with his lightsaber sound font: * Crystal focus can play music. ANYmusic.
Just copy it to the SD card.
The sound font is stored on the SD card.
Yes, the motherboard has an SD card slot.
I will not discuss how to connect the crystal focus.
The instructions provided by Erv Plecter have done a good job.
If you really want to know how all this works, please download the PDF above.
Well, so far you should have a very nice metal tube 10 to 15 long.
If you decide you want a lightsaber of the Darth more type, maybe 20 "to 22 ".
The most common length tends to hover around 11. 5".
You also have a plastic "blade ".
Last but not least, a bunch of electronic parts.
LED, circuit board, ice hockey, battery, switch, speaker, low power LED. Ohh, and wire. A spool of it.
Best two colors.
Well, like the picture above, put them all on your workbench and measure your wires.
Remember, in these little hills, the space is a premium, and having an extra wire here and there will eat all the space.
Continue to weld parts and wires where it makes sense.
When it doesn't make sense to weld the parts permanently together, use the corresponding male-female connector.
Use small connectors as much as possible.
I used male and female head pins like this: test it first! ! !
When the electronic device is out of range, connect all the components and turn on the power supply.
Is it bright?
Did the speaker sound? Yes?
Well, the most frustrating part is coming now. . .
Disconnect the wire on the connector.
Now put everything in the door.
Every lightsaber is different.
The layout of wires, switches and electronic devices is as unique as fingerprints.
So I can't tell you what to do.
Just stuff it in one way or another.
Sometimes a compromise is needed, or part of it needs to be abandoned.
Or maybe you are lucky, the room is big.
Reconnect the wire.
I have built a few lightsabers and I can tell you that although I have learned a lot from each building, there is enough room for something I have never had.
Note: MHS parts are screwed into each other.
Please note that when you screw in the part, you will not break the wires and welding points.
Tighten screws, bolts, nuts.
Put the blade in
Tighten the blade to hold the screw.
Hold your breath and move your finger ON the ON switch. . . POWER IT ON. :)Have fun.
Update 11/20/2010: I accidentally fried a Li-
Ion batteries on the lightsaber last Monday (11/16/10).
I took it apart to make sure the rest of the electronics were working. It is. (
I should have taken pictures).
Total time of 5 minutes apart.
Put it back together and it took me an hour!
Remember, this is the lightsaber I assembled.
When I make the connector with a needle nose clamp and connect the parts together, I already have the blood statistician for fixing the wires.
I have so many wires and I forgot where to go!
Thankfully, I thought about it in advance and color coded everything (
All negative wires are black, conflict sensors are orange, speaker wires are brown, switch wires are yellow, etc)
While at work, I looked at my wife and asked her, "Why did you let me do this crazy thing ? "? !
She just smiled. . .
This is tricky, confusing and frustrating.
Step back and take a deep breath and try again when you calm down.