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building a geodesic dome greenhouse - part 3 - polycarbonate glazing

by:Cailong     2019-08-06
building a geodesic dome greenhouse - part 3  -  polycarbonate glazing
Finally started to do the third video of my series of building survey dome.
This book covers how all struts are made.
It was shot in HD so you should be able to extend it to fullscreen!
Hope you like it!
If you missed the first two of the series, you can find their instructions in the following link: here is the transcript in the video. . . .
Hello everyone, this is the third video on the series to build the dome greenhouse of the ground wire.
This time I will introduce how to build interconnected pillars made of red cedar.
The reason why I chose red cedar is because it has the character of anti-rot.
You can use treated wood, which is much cheaper, but I am worried that chemicals will penetrate into the water of my aquaponic system.
The place I use to calculate is acidome. ru.
The entire site is in Russian, but Google Translate does a pretty good job of converting text.
The calculator allows you to enter the diameter of the dome, select the hub type and size, and even enter the dimensions of the pillar.
It will then calculate the angle required for each hub and calculate all the pillars of different sizes and mark them with dimensions taking into account the dimensions of the hub.
The best feature is the ability to allow the software to calculate the flat base because the 3 v 3/8 dome is not flat.
Click and recalculate struts with the appropriate length!
3 v dome with a diameter of 33 feet, the width of each triangle will never exceed 6 feet.
This will enable me to purchase polycarbonate glass on 6 by 24 feet of the paper, helping to minimize the amount of waste.
The pillars are made of 14 feet of red cedar 2x4.
This will be sufficient material to cut two pillars from each board with some scrap.
The end of each plate is cut at a 12 degree angle, so it will be aligned with the hub.
Not every hub connection is accurate to 12 degrees, but there is enough bending in the structure to make the angle average.
Once the pillars are cut into length, they go through the table and add a slight slope to them.
When the dome is fully assembled, the polycarbonate plate will rest fairly flat along the slope.
This will also ensure that the height of each pillar is the same as it may be slightly different from the mill.
Next, I use the dado blade installed in the radial direction to remove some material from the end of each pillararm saw.
This space will provide a resting area for the top label of the hub and provide enough clearance for the polycarbonate panel at the top of the transport Bolt.
I built a fixture as a stop and kept each pillar aligned correctly during drilling.
This allows to drill a uniformly placed hole near the end of each pillar.
The position of this hole is important, so it will be installed correctly on the Hub and provide an accurate length for the hub and pillar combination.
Now, the perfect excuse to use one of my favorite tools!
The bottom of the transport bolt head has a square neck so that it can grab the wood to prevent it from turning.
In order for it to fit into the metal label, I either have to drill the hole of the label a bit larger, thereby reducing some strength of the label, or turning the neck of the bolt on the metal car bed.
I choose to turn each bolt and turn again
Galvanized in cold places
Galvanized paint.
Here is an example of how the final assembly will fit together.
The pillar is sandwiched between the two hub cards and then tightened in place using a lock washer and nut.
This top view shows how each pillar rotates slightly on each hub.
Because the angle of each triangle part is different from one part to the next, this allows me to do the same hub and allows for minor changes to the angle relative to the pivot of the bolt.
This side profile shows how dado in the pillar allows the grease glass to clear the area without hitting the label or bolt head.
Finally, this profile shows how the glass windows will be leveled into an inclined area cut along the top of each pillar.
I assembled the base to verify that the calculations were correct and that the parts were assembled together.
So far, great!
That's it now.
The next video I plan to detail some of the site work.
Thanks for watching!
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