customizable light box - protective plastic film
With LED all the rage these days, how cool would it be if you could put your own lighting art on the wall of your bedroom? Even BETTER. . .
What if you could easily change the art, especially around the holidays? !
This project does not start with this, but when meditating in the hot shower (
I'm notorious for my mayor and Shang.
Like a meditation shower)
I came up with an idea to make my picture light box, a lighting art box.
This box does require some carpentry skills to build the box, but not much.
If you can make a reclining frame with an embedded background, you definitely have no problem here.
Yes, the LED light strip is different, but any light strip you find should do that.
I 've done some electrical work on my body, but it's not necessary as long as you don't mind unplugging the wires hanging outside the box instead of using a hard wiring switch. So. . .
Let's do something!
The material lists the tools I use, wow, wow!
Let's talk about it before we start.
The first thing you need to do is figure out how you want your monitor to work.
I listed two acrylic to use just because I chose one to float on the other.
I want my first image to pop up from the second one just like it hovers over it and give it a 3D image.
I also want the light to be displayed only by symbols.
If you don't want to do this, you can simplify the project with just one piece of acrylic.
I would like to emphasize one more point here.
I am trying to highlight leaving "packaging" on acrylic sheets ".
You can use these forms.
In the video below, you can see how I cut and spray plastic on acrylic sheets.
By flipping it, I can use two different colors of paint, one on each side, which really makes it easy for me to create my photos.
Click here to find out what I'm talking about.
Don't do that. . .
The decision on how you want to proceed has been made to find an image that you want to delete and let's move on. . .
When I found the picture I was searching for online, I used the free, wonderful little program, Mathias Wandel, to enlarge the picture and allow you to print the image in order on the printer.
After printing the page, I simply cut off any white edges on the side of the paper so I can put the images together and throw some tape.
After the tape is glued, I bypass the frame of the picture and stick the whole picture to the top of my unpeeled acrylic sheet.
The speed is fast, but this is how I stick my images together and stick them on acrylic paper after cutting.
The free Big Print Program for Matthias Wandel is OK, now that we have started our mode, I put my acrylic sheet on top of two 2x4 with an LED light below, so I can see the print through plastic.
Very careful, I use X-knife to cut the part of the plastic protective film above the pattern
Acto knife and a practical knife just stripped off the protective film.
This gives me a layer of protection to prevent paint fog from appearing when exposing the parts I want to draw.
Why not cut directly on the print side?
I do different things with both sides of the acrylic sheet.
While acting as a gray paint around the symbol, flip to the other side and cut out the actual symbol.
Use spray paint, this effect is very good as long as you only use two colors.
If you are using something different, it would be wise to remove the plastic film and trace or paint directly.
Once I 've finished one side and painted it, I wait until it dries and then peel off the protective layer.
I did the opposite job and let it dry and peel it off.
Then I used the brush to add a little glow to the dark paint to cover the symbol and give it a weird glow after the light goes out.
My second piece of acrylic is also optional and I stripped the plastic protective layer and sprayed a layer of pure black.
Mark, peel, and final drawing if you want to do what I do by adding this extra sheet, there is not much in this step.
I use a grinder to cut out the shape that allows the light to pass through.
When I cut, I make sure the side of the drawing is down (
Thus cutting clean, unpainted surfaces)
Cut plastic is not allowed to go deep into paint.
Alternatively, you can use Dremel (
Like I did in the fourth photo)
Grind out an accent or cut out a smaller hole
I also drew some areas on the back of the first acrylic sheet that I didn't want the light to go through, which further gave my symbol an appealing glow.
This is also shown in the link.
Cutting and painting areas I don't want the light to shine across the area. Next, I made my frame to fit my acrylic sheet and provide support for the light.
If you have ever made a photo frame, you can go.
Here, when I made the box, I used the Mitter angle with the flower keyway, because I like the look of the good Mitter angle and the flower keyway, which makes it
I also want the top of the frame to be able to fall off, and these spline plates in place can prevent the plates from falling off the top.
Now you don't need to use the Mitter angle.
Splicing the boards next to each other in the corner, and then putting some screws, the effect will be good.
You do need to run the groove on the wood.
080 acrylic sheets to slide in.
The depth of these cuts I made about 3/8 ".
Width 3/16 "(
The way I do this is to use the cut of my blade (an 1/8")
And added 1/16 "seconds).
Between each channel, I left about 1/8 "if you choose to use multiple sheets of paper ".
Not something absolutely necessary, but I made a small groove on the back of the frame so that I could insert a paneling.
If you don't want to dent it in, you can always put it directly on the top of the wood rack and stick it down.
If you want to remove the acrylic sheet, remember that the only part in the frame that will stick together for a while is the bottom of the side and back.
The top must be kept without glue.
At each part of the frame, I also removed about 15 degrees from the front with a table saw to make the edges of the frame look tilted.
This is purely for cosmetics.
If you are interested in how I make the spline frame, make the spline box with the spline box. . .
Whether you decide to mount the back panel or add a switch, this step should be useful.
If you intend to stick the insert directly to the back, you will need to measure the inside of the insert or the outside of the box.
My size is 24 1/4 "x 18 1/8" of the panel embedded in my box ".
It should be a good approximation to work as I thought of those acrylic sheets. . .
Well, they are very suitable for my unit.
Turn on the LED light and look at the key hole below.
I found the death Center and marked a line on my 18 "LED bar (
Where to 9 ")
, Found the center of death and placed a mark in the center of the width of my 24 1/4 "panel (12 1/8")
Turn over the LED light strip.
I mark from the center on the right side of the LED light to the key hole, then measure from the left side and transfer these dimensions to the panel, start with my center line, measure on both sides, then drill holes to get the bolts through.
I put the head of the bolt inside the box and put a nut on the other side of the back of the panel.
When I put the head of the bolt on the key hole on the back of the lamp, I tighten the nut until it is fixed.
Drill holes, add LED and tighten the nut.
If you choose to add a switch, I will give you some basics of installing it.
I don't want to be too technical, because I have a lot of code that will cause you trouble if you don't do things the right way.
This step is easy.
We just wanted our switch to go through an edge of the box so we could put a ring on it.
If you don't want to add a switch, connect the wire on the LED to the socket from the back of the box and unplug it every time you finish watching your masterpiece.
Drilling, wiring and drilling our switch holes.
These are just a few tips.
If you don't know what you're doing, find a youtube video or electrician to help you solve it.
Wiring switch is a simple thing, but if you are not sure about your ability, then take another route and just unplug the LED light bar every time you turn on the power.
This is just a convenient step.
After that, I used the mounting cable tie and tied it back before screwing the wire to the frame, preventing any movement that might release the connection in time.
Increase cable tie belt.
If you haven't glued your back yet, do it now.
When the glue dries, fix it in place using a DingTalk or Brad nail.
If you don't have a stapler or brads, wait with a clip.
The next thing we need to do is put a French splint on the back.
Think of the French splint as a triangular cross.
One triangle part is attached to the wall and the other triangle part is attached to the art behind the wall.
I made an exclusive instructional video for this step!
French splints are installed. Thank you!
If you have any questions or suggestions on how to make it better, please comment!
Follow me here, follow me on youtube! Finished!