diy 3d printed headphones - clear mylar film roll
Not long ago, I was wondering if it was possible to 3D print a pair of headphones that sounded great.
Searching online doesn't give up a lot of other people, nor does it give up any literature on how to do it, especially to make them sound great.
So this is a perfect project!
After some mediocre prototypes, lots of testing to see how different design variables affect sound, and countless design iterations, I came up with a design that sounded great and looked great, cheap and easy to build.
The price of the parts should be around $35.
If you're interested in reading more about the work I 've done with design, it's all on my homemade headphones.
In particular, you can read here how the design variables affect the sound as well as my test settings here.
1 x headband2 x baffles2 x coversI it is recommended to print them with ABS.
The headband uses a 5% filler to give it flexibility, about 10-
20% for others.
The baffle and cover need support, and the headband does not need support.
Print the part in the direction shown by the photo, then clear all the rafts/brackets.
Wire-cut the connection into a length of about 2 "or 5 cm and peel off about 1/8 or 3mm of the insulation from both ends.
Remove two jacks from the plastic cover.
If you are using the Jack we recommend, please weld the negative pole (black)
Connect the wire to the large label, attach the front to the small round label (See pictures)
Screw the Jack into the hole on the baffle.
Insert the driver into the baffle.
Be very careful not to damage the fragile Mela film on the driver.
Important-the terminals on the drive should be 90 ° away from the jack, facing the hook
Up Line holder (
Yellow circle in picture).
The Gear plate of the glue's driving factor is four 1/4 "(6mm)
The point of length of the glue, evenly placed around the driver (
Blue Arrow in figure).
Do not glue around the driver's entire perimeter as this will adversely affect the sound.
Waiting for the glue to dry . . . . . . Weld the connection line to the drive terminal as shown in the figure.
The red terminal and the one next to it are positive and the other two are negative.
You don't need any welding material-melt the welding label on the drive with a soldering iron, then insert the wire into the puddle and remove the iron while keeping the wire until the solder is set.
Be careful not to get too hot as this can damage the driver.
Route the connecting lines to the back of the holder so they don't get stuck with the headband.
Secret Sauce now!
In this case, Dayton audio CE38MB-
32 drivers are too bass.
Heavy, lack of high-end detail, so we need to reduce the mid/bass to make it more equal to the treble.
You might think more. is-
More about bass, but there will still be a lot after completing this step.
Make a backup if you don't believe meto-Reverse comparison.
If you don't use Dayton CE38MB-
32 drivers, you have to adjust them to your taste-some drivers will have tighter fabrics on their back and do not need this step.
Using plasticine or something like that, roll a small amount into the sausage and then plug all the holes except one hole under the black fabric on the driver's back.
The Black Arrow in the picture shows nonblocked hole.
Use the adhesive on the mat to attach the fabric that comes with the mat to the baffle.
Install the baffle on the cover to ensure that the head Belt end of the baffle corresponds to the head Belt end of the cover (
(Two square holes are aligned).
They may need a bit of strength to get together-they deliberately wear it tight so they don't need glue or they can disassemble it.
Install the mat on the baffle.
These are great for you, but if you end up with long edges, it's easiest (
Blue Arrow in picture).
Insert and adjust the headband, insert the cable, and it is done.
Put on some awesome tunes and enjoy your new headphones!
I hope you like to build them and listen to them as much as I like to design them!
Note-There are left and right, so swap both sides if they feel wrong.