diy neon resin plank table - how to make your own using glasscast® 3 clear epoxy resin - polypropylene sheet
This zingy neon resin board table will make a compelling statement in any home, office or almost anywhere!
The actual working hours are also very short, and amazing results can be achieved with minimal woodworking experience and low cost of such a size table.
This new Instructure project follows our previous Instructure "diy resin river table" and "resin penny floor Project ".
We made a table where we could comfortably sit in 6 seats with basic boards and glass®3 transparent epoxy coated resin and neon colored paint, then finished the look with the thick industrial black leg of the hairpin leg Company. The style and techniques applied in this project can be easily applied to creating tables, headboards or bars of different sizes
Top, color the resin in different colors, or lay the board with different angles.
The possibilities are endless and your imagination is the only thing that is holding you back!
As always, we made video tutorials and e-books for in-produced
Deep instructions that you can download for free, all links can be found throughout the project.
Hope you enjoyed it, please post any questions and comments and we will be happy to answer them. . . The eye-
Will be made using easily accessible boards and glass to capture resin board tables®3 transparent epoxy surface coating resin, will be colored in neon yellow.
Greenhouse gases®3 resin is specially formulated as self
Level and solidify, leaving an amazing smooth and smooth surface without leveling, polishing or further polishing.
The resin is self-degassing and is easy to work at a mixing ratio of 2 to 1 by weight.
In order to make this stunning work, the board must be completely encapsulated in resin.
This can be achieved by dividing the pouring process into four steps, and once fully cured, the edges can achieve the same high gloss finish as the surface.
Transparent epoxy surface coating resin
We use glass. ®3 pigments of your choice-
We used the neon yellow substrate.
We used polypropylene sheet/release sheet strips-
As a bellman-
In the width of the gap you want (ours are 8mm)
Electric flat sandpaper-
Offering a variety of gritspoling combo legs for your choice of desktop planks-
We use the redwood tree.
Water-based spray brush barrel, resin hanger, mixer and screwdriver safety equipment-
Gloves, masks, GogglesDigital ScalesIt are very important, the environment you work in is a dry, heated space, and the ambient temperature of the whole process is about 20 °c.
Resin also needs to be at room temperature-
So if the weather is cold or is already in the garage, you need to raise the temperature to 20 °c before using it.
Any wet or cold condition will affect the final result and the room needs to be as free of dust and dirt as possible --
We made a lid to use during curing.
We used some basic smooth shaved mahogany planks brought from local timber merchants.
These are also available from DIY stores and can usually be purchased in different widths and lengths, which is exactly what we want.
We cut some of the lengths into shorter sections to make sure they are all different as we would like to have a random staggered pattern to get more interest in the table.
Although this requires more resin, you can have a different depth of the board.
You can make a table with pallet wood or more interesting wood on the edge, but we want to make a table with clean lines and modern feel, so we chose a shaved board.
When you are ready, the most important thing about the wood is to make sure the board is smooth, flat and dry before you start.
So depending on the type of wood you use, you may need to put more work into the preparation of the board.
Next, you need to arrange all the boards in random mode, leaving the resin gap and border of your choice
For the table in the project, we used a 8mm gap between the boards and a 12mm border outside the board.
You can then calculate the total surface area.
Keep in mind that if there is a larger gap between your planks, more resin is needed for a table per square meter.
We also want to make a contrast between the boards, which we achieve by reducing and darkening some of the boards and using concealer glue to bring the boards marked to be changed.
To lighten some of our white brush (water based)
In some cases, two coats are applied to the wood dye for a lighter tone.
We then pass the flame to the board with a spray light, darkening the selection of other boards, which bring out the natural texture in the wood.
Once you have the planks ready, spread them back before you start to make sure you're happy with the color and layout changes --
It's a good idea to draw a plan of where your planks are in the layout, so you can easily put them back in the resin.
Our substrate is a piece of polypropylene.
This is the ideal surface for this kind of work, because it does not stick to epoxy, it can be reused and can provide excellent finish for the lower side of the table without finishing.
Make sure that the surface of the table you make is completely level using the mental height, and the substrate is large enough to accommodate the table (
Complete with clearance and Border)
Paste the substrate down using double sided tape and press hard down.
Next, create a side bar using a wooden stick-
You have the option to use something else, just keep in mind that using epoxy will not stick to the material above.
Let the baton not
Stick, we applied Flash/release tape to cover the baton and leave a prominent part on the tape, which will create a tape "hinge" to stick it to the substrate.
Once all sides are firmly secured in place, seal the corners using tape-
It is very important that the base and barrier are completely waterproof and no resin leakage is allowed.
Now that the barrier and substrate are set up, it is time to prepare the resin for the project.
It's a bit complicated to calculate how much resin and hardening agent is needed for the resin board table, because you need to consider the resin below, the gap and the top.
So if you are going to create a table that is the same as the table in the project, you should consider about 10 kg resin per square meter table. This table is 1.
We used less than 13 kg of the resin in total.
We calculated how much resin and hardening agent we needed. ®3 has a weight mixing ratio of 2 parts of resin to 1 part of the hardening agent, and it is easier to color the resin required for the whole project at one time to ensure that the color of the whole project is consistent.
Pour the required amount of resin into a clean bucket.
We did some experiments about 3 times before the project started.
5 grams of paint per kilogram of resin gives us the bright but still translucent effect we want.
For this size item, we used more than 45g of pigment in 13 kg resin.
Keep in mind that at this stage you will only dye the resin (
Not hardening agent).
In order to ensure that the pigment is dispersed through the resin, a thorough mixing is essential.
Make sure you scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket and mix until all the resin can see the same color.
PoursTo package the board properly and prevent any bubbles we need to pour the resin into 4 stages
It is important to follow these instructions to get the best results in the completed table.
Here's how we can break this process: for each pour, the coloring resin needs to be mixed with the correct amount of the hardening agent.
The calculation will be included in each step-
While your calculations will be specific to your project.
Accurate measurement and mixing is essential, any unmixed resin will not cure properly and will leave a soft sticky area in the project.
Use a digital scale to make sure you're as accurate as possible.
Put the right amount of resin and hardening agent into the bucket and mix thoroughly with a mixing stick for about 3 minutes.
Then transfer the mixture to 2nd barrels and mix again for 3 minutes-
This is the so-called double. potting and -
If you follow this procedure at each stage, you should not have any problems with the unmixed resin. Pour 1 -
Then, the base layer pour the mixture into the base plate and disperse it evenly with the sling.
You can use a hot gun to disperse any bubbles if needed, although greenhouse gases are very good at self-degassing.
And let this stage heal B-stage. The B-stageThe B-
The stage means that the resin has begun to become solid but still sticky.
To determine whether this stage has arrived.
Touch the resin with the finger in the glove and if it leaves a mark but does not stick to the glove it reaches B-
Stage, you need to prepare the first part.
If you allow resin to pass through B-
The resin is then not chemically bonded to the next layer, so it is necessary to glue the resin all together with sandpaper to form a bond with the new layer-
You need to get the resin to B-
The stage after pouring 1, 2 and 3.
At ambient temperature of about 20 °c, B-
This stage will be reached in about 12 hours (
Use GlassCast month)
Continue to check with your gloved fingers to make sure you fall down a layer at the right time.
Repeat the weighing and mixing process of layer 2nd-1.
5mm is enough.
Pour the 2nd now for a few hours until the resin starts the gel and then remove the spacer and the package.
If you leave them to B-
It will be difficult for them to leave this stage.
Then pour the 2nd to B-stage.
Repeat weighing and mixing of the resin and hardening agent of the sealing layer 2. 5mm depth.
In this 3rd pour, we need to fill the gap and boundary with the top of the board.
The amount of resin will depend on the size of your table and the depth of the board.
Because the 3rd pour is the deepest, we pour half of the 3rd batch and then use the heat-
Make sure no bubbles are captured before pouring the second part of the mixture and using the hot gun again.
Pay close attention to this stage and make sure there are no bubbles on the board
This should not be a problem if you seal them correctly.
When you get to the top of the board, leave to heal B-stage again. Pour 4 -
Is the surface layer, will be the final pour basin, will form a super smooth surface for the table.
The depth of this Pour is 3mm to mirror 1st.
Be extra careful with the measurement, mixing and pouring of the last critical layer, as this will be the surface of your table.
Do not cut corners, you will get the perfect result
Do not forget to put it under the lid safely during full curing to prevent dust and dirt.
You need to leave the table for at least 24 hours-
But if you can, the time will be longer and it will be full of strength in a few days.
Remember to be patient and don't tear down the table too early.
To check if the resin is fully cured, you should be able to press your nails into the resin as hard as possible and leave no trace at all.
Once fully cured, you should be able to easily remove barriers, substrates and tape without any problems.
Now that the desktop is out of the protective barrier, be sure to use the protective board when you finish the edge and install the legs.
Once done, you need to remove the meniscus of the resin and level and polish the edges
The top and bottom of the table are already in completion.
After the edges are finished, install the legs of your choice according to their instructions --
It will be very simple as you can easily drill through the resin and fix it on the board.
The legs we chose came from the hairpin leg Company.
The neon resin pallet table is now complete!
To start your project, check out our video tutorials and free e-books.
The principles and techniques used in this instruction can be transferred to any project you imagine, the actual hands-on time is relatively short and the complexity is low, making it ideal for beginners and more experienced manufacturers!
Glass®3 is the ideal epoxy for this amazing neon board table and also the technology to make this eye
The pop-up table can be used to make the bar, table top and headboard, and the appearance can be simply changed to suit any style.
The change in this process may be to color the boards to be encapsulated with different wood stains or paint templates, or to color the boards with larger or smaller gaps and boundaries, wood board making pattern by changing the color of resin-
Like herringbone glass®3 is ideal epoxy for the above application, any product made in this way may be the center of a designer apartment or modern office, only glass is required®Resin and neon paint!
This resin is also suitable for Penny flooring and is compatible with the glass cast coloring pigment series and metal powder.
I hope you like the instructions.
The table is amazing and the possibilities of this technology are endless!
Please ask any questions or comments and we will try our best to answer them.