garden shed climbing wall - polycarbonate roof panels
Want to use all your wood chips for a recycled shed wall that you can climb?
This project shows how I can build a 3 m by 4 m shed with the rest of renovating our house, scrap wood, palets and anything I can find.
I have also added a lot of new materials, but the purpose is to use and recycle as much as possible my existing inventory.
The building part of the cottage will be simply covered and I think climbing the wall is an interesting part.
For rock climbing style, it is basically a ledge that can be hung like a stone (no ropes).
On stronger wood you can even screw some rock climbing racks to make it easier.
This project can also be adapted to any existing shed, the key is to be able to add good support to the interior of the shed, screw the climbing board to it, and the structure is strong enough, anchor so it stays upright.
Climbing a board requires the weight of an adult or child.
Options for refitting.
If the existing structure has 2x4 (60mmx70mm)
Then you can add some extra vertical support to remove the outer cladding board (
Can be reused
And add external treatment structure cladding panels and wind and rain film according to the whole building.
If your cabin has boards both as support and as an actual inner/outer wall (see photos)
Then I'll put it in place and build an internal support wall with 2 × 4 spacing, the vertical columns are 20 to 30 cm apart so it's easier to screw your board up
Alternatively, you can make the 2x4 frame and connect to the outside and screw the board to it.
Get it legally before doing anything, instead of getting some information from your local council.
The council's request will help to outline your building restrictions and for us we are limited to the height of 3.
5 m and roof spacing specific to the area, after a certain size you will turn to different regulations.
We designed it to accommodate a version of the "simple work declaration", which, by law, the council needs to approve/reject within one month of submitting the plan and paperwork.
If you are going to put in time, money and resources, it will build something more eco-functional and sustainable than a building that needs to be demolished later on.
I thought of some crazy things like a sloping roof and a polycarbonate roof panel for natural light, but local council regulations require the roof to match the local red-watt structure.
Height and roof spacing make things complicated, so I simplified my plan to make a standard style cabin.
I actually got it by proposing a stamped sheet metal that looks like a tile.
The complexity of the tile stamp Ridge means I have to forget the polycarbonate roof panel.
Getting a good connection between the metal plate and polycarbonate is too tricky.
I ended up solving the interior lighting problem with white paint and some cheap but bright spotlights, 120 W for working on dim days.
I also connected a motion detector to open an eco of 2nd (15watt)
Automatically light up the circuit when you enter the cabin.
In addition to the usual woodworking tools, the most important thing is the powerful impact screwdriver (
The 18 v charging act of liyoubi).
You can't do this project without it.
Each board used to support the weight of the climber needs to be screwed in with a heavy 6mm screw 60 to 140mm long, try to do it with a normal screwdriver, after the first 2 or 3 long screws, you will give up.
Mandatory * safety glasses and gloves * crash driver * round saw * jigsaw optional * drop saw * table saw as you will do a lot of carpentry work with a lot of dangerous tools.
Take your time, especially any chainsaw.
Keep all hands away from the blade.
For some small tricky cuts, try to clamp the wood before processing it.
The force required to drill some screws is very impressive, so if the drill bit of the screw head slips, keep your spare hand unblocked.
I slipped once while screwing a piece of wood and actually pierced my thumbnail, very painful, so be careful.
I made a concrete base with a foam insert plate, which was the foam I got from the dump and bought the missing few meters.
I also lined the edges with foam strips cut on the table saw that were screwed out of the template.
I used a very long screw so that once the plate was poured I could screw it off the table.
Why is the Garden House insulated?
After reading for a while, I found that there was more heat loss coming from the edge of the tablet than from below.
I know I will take some time and a lot of time to build it instead of regretting that I want to turn it into an insulated studio work cabin soon.
A framed roof was prepared in my front parking lot to set the height and spacing with chalk lines.
I then matched each beam to the chalk line and screwed it up to the frame roof.
I got a lot of help from my father-in-law who is a very generous and patient person.
Most of the columns are recycled beams and beams.
Sometimes it is difficult because they are very old and twisted, crossing is the house I found out from the renovations built in 1940.
4x2 the wood on the roof is new and straight.
The walls are framed with a 4x2 s and are the remaining material with a 60 cm Poly insulating board spacing.
The exterior is skinned in the external grade building panel of 18mm, and then the breathable waterproof film is bound in the appropriate position.
The supporting wood is then screwed in place to line up in the center of the frame column.
This is very important so that you can screw the wood used as a handheld device directly into the nail by supporting the wood and building covering.
Supporting Wood allows air to flow behind the final cladding or climbing boards made of wood chips --
The more pine trees, interior, exterior, palets, planks, beams, etc, the easier it is to hold your hand.
The breathable film keeps the water from entering the building cladding.
So if your board rot or breaks, you can screw down and replace only the board.
This is much more difficult than running horizontal boards like ordinary sheds.
I used lighter screws for recessed wood that does not support the weight of climbers.
Anything that sticks out will be used as a potential holder, so it is necessary to screw directly into the bolt with a heavier screw.
I also added a new processed pine board to complete the cladding.
When you add a board, try adding a different thickness and length to make a series of unpredictable ledge to challenge your climbers.
With the bigger wood you can even screw the extra wood to make your ledge bigger.
Best of all, you can add or remove climbing boards at any stage even after you finish the project.
This means you can customize walls for kids or adults.
Once you're done, you can even draw the coded route on the board.
You can walk all the way to the roof or you can leave the climbing area at 2.
5 m or 3 M, cover the rest with regular planks.
If you like the extra thrill of climbing the roof at 3.
5 m, then the thick fascia board can be directly screwed into the roof structure.
The plate can be pre-drilled and climbed with the support and the lugs nut installed after placement.
A good anchor plate and rope ring are needed.
I recommend climbing this part of the structure with a harness/rope and a partner on the "belay" or rope brake.
If your wall is above 2 or 3 M, you 'd better have some sponge mattress.
This is a huge investment in time, but I am happy with the end result.
Dealing with the rest of the material is much like a jigsaw puzzle and sometimes you miss some of it --
So don't be afraid to buy or change plans for missing parts.
In the end, I used a lot of leftover material but also had to buy something new.
I recycled the materials.
Glass coffee table-sliding door *
Window * wood beam, cross, decoration, wood board, cardboard, floor, 2x4 etc * remaining polyurethane insulation board * metal plate for old garage door * paving worker for dump * tile debris * flowerpot-