greenhouse improvement - greenhouse panels
We started with the small 6x8 greenhouse of the port freight company, adding some much needed heights and overhead bed planter boxes indoors.
The custom cedar door with wooden latch replaces the small aluminum slider that comes with the greenhouse.
We cleaned up a tree from where we wanted to place the conservatory, hopefully I have some photos of these early steps, so I'll try to describe in detail where we might not have the pictures.
What I have is probably the earliest and shows some of what I will describe.
After removing the tree and the fabric we purchased at Sams Club, what kind of grass we laid in the area.
We cover a total area of about 18x14 and will show some photos of the surrounding area.
After the fabric fell, we brought a few yards of what was called 5/8 minus gravel, not only covering the area, but also building those areas because of the perimeter footprint of 6x8.
We built an extra area of around 4 inch to support our base, and what you can see in this image is 4x6.
In the distant corner, you can fix each corner together with a metal bracket.
After they are all in place and secured with galvanized screw bolts (1/2 x 3)
We drilled two 1/2 holes on each 4x6 and dropped 24 inch bars to make sure it really got to the scene.
Similar to the last picture, but showing the short wall we built in the greenhouse gives us some height.
This step alone really starts to make this a major upgrade.
We built a wall height of 14 inch including the top and bottom.
Put this on the top of 4x6, and considering that the rock base below is lifted by 4 inch, the roof of our wall is about 20 inch higher than the ground.
I will try to describe what I don't have in the picture, but you can still see some.
The outside of the Pony wall was covered with some cedar I picked up at an auction, which was actually ground for grilled salmon.
It is 5/16 thick and 5 inch wide and I have a ton so I guess why not use it to wrap the wall and as you will see it has other uses.
The gas nail gun did a quick job in this regard.
After this step, I started putting the assembled frame on the base.
It is connected to the galvanized unit with a large gasket per 6 inch, much more than suggested.
At this point, I was pleasantly surprised by the strength of the frame.
Inside the wall, I wanted something solid, and I had about 3/8 layers laid around me, something that was used to cover the inside of the Pony wall.
Because we wanted to plant the box inside and I didn't want the dust to stick on the plywood, so we covered it with some big black garbage bags that were always in the store, so I would love to use some of their.
I usually overlap the seams and nail them on the plywood and on the edge of the wall.
This photo shows more details of the box we made.
We use the short area around 2x12 and behind to divide the interior space and give us three separate areas.
All areas exposed to dirt are treated in black plastic and the interior of the cedar is running out, it is estimated that we will not bake salmon soon!
I think you can also see how we can use more cedar to cover all the inner edges and I believe the width of these pieces is 1/2 to 3 inch.
In this photo, I also realized that the opening of the door had been cut off and I didn't want to go over that wall, so there was a need to build a custom door and install the frame to support it.
I would like to thank all the people who posted videos on how to assemble the greenhouses and I found them very valuable.
I assembled the whole frame before building the pony wall so I had the exact size to build it and it worked perfectly.
In this shooting panel, we will close it up.
To install the door, we need to build a wooden frame that can connect the hinges.
The way I connect the wood to the aluminum frame is to make a sandwich and put the wood on both sides so that my wood screws have more to catch and create a more substantial feel frame
This step also adds to the rigidity of the entire structure, and after the first time it was assembled separately from the base, I kept amazed at how soft it was in this state.
I really have questions about the strength of this structure until it is fastened down and added to these blocks of wood.
I decided to leave the old sliding frame in place because, apart from not wanting to cut it off, I thought if I added a small solar panel it would probably use the field point as an accessory.
Before opening the door, we wanted to get some plants in, so we dragged a few yards of fine soil and filled the box, which should count the load on the trolley.
The depth of the box is really because it's obvious when we start filling them up.
This photo was taken a few weeks ago, as these all started with seeds.
Dood is built using 5/4 Cedar in 4 and 6 inch width.
I set up the door so I can take advantage of the greenhouse panels that were supposed to be placed on the aluminum door frame.
Since this door is higher than the one that came with the kit, I need to go back to my bbq Cedar again and fill in the bottom plate.
Make the joint with cookie cutter and waterproof titebond glue.
Plastic that is easy to cut with a table saw fits the frame, and more cedar is used for frame panels and keeps them in place.
The hinge is the heavy brass door hinge I have placed for 20 years, which is really excessive for this lightweight door, but has already paid for it.
This project is really cleaning up the store!
The last step is to come up with a way to keep the door closed and I only have enough 5/4 Cedar left to do the job.
I used the table saw to cut the main part of the pivot part through.
The router table can be flipped and polished using a band saw to shape.
I 've done it on the door at this point, and I kind of wish I didn't do it so I could stick it to it.
At some point, I thought I 'd put the same finish on the Cedar at the bottom of the greenhouse as on the door.