headphone amp (chu moy) - metallized polyester film
I 've been trying to make a headset like this for a while, not because my mp3 player doesn't have the power to drive my bad headphones, or because my headphones have a high impedance, but because. . .
Looks good, maybe I will buy some good headphones in the future when that day comes.
I also like the look of the Penguin mints purchased from Thinkgeek, which only helps me to make the decision on this amp.
So when I decided to stop dreaming and start hurting myself with a soldering iron, I checked instructures first and was surprised to find that no one posted instructure for this very popular diy amp.
So I started to do my own thing. that's what it is. . .
Note: For high resolution image layout images, please visit my photo market as they are compressed here.
The tools needed for this version are not special.
All you need is: soldering iron and peeling lines (
Or in my case, a leather man sprayed)
There are 10 thousand iPads under my tools.
The welding station is a xytrotron lf-
I got 2000 about 3 weeks ago.
Any soldering iron is OK, but I got this special station because it is cheaper than similar products in the UK, parts are easy to buy in the UK, and its performance surprised me.
Xytrooper is highly recommended if you are after a good welding station.
The only real trouble I have with this building is the prototype board.
As a radiowack model, I found it difficult to buy in the UK, but after some digging, I found a great website that stores many radiowack components in the UK for a good pricewww. t2retail. co.
However, if you live in the UK, all you have to do is go to the local radiowack and pick up most of the components you need.
Also, for the UK builders I highly recommend digikey, they are our base which makes me think the delivery will take a long time, however, I ordered it on Thursday night and they are on Saturday
OK, here is the original list: 220 f/35 v electrolytic capacitor, radial lead (X2)Radioshack (272-1029)Digikey(P5552)0.
1 f metal polyester cap (X2)
1/4/4 w metal film resistor platter radiowack company (271-0309)
Radiochack of bread boards (276-0150)T2Retail(2760150)
Digikey Opa2132PA (OPA2132PA)
Mini Jack (stereo)3. 5mm)
8 IC sockets, gold contact Digikey (AE7313)
The volume knob of any electrical supplier can provide a 9 v battery clip (
Will really do it.
For volume control, you can use the Alpine rk097 pan (
For the internal switch, so the switch is off when the volume drops to a minimum, which means no external switch is needed and makes the overall look cleaner)
Or Panasonic 10 k pot (
Smoother than the Alps but no internal switch)
Volume control, Panasonic 10 k, horizontal installation Digikey (P2U4103)
The Alps rk097 pot can be purchased from the led, or you can choose to tell you when the amplifier is turned on, no special led is required, just 3mm.
You also need a fence (
Altoids tin or Penguin mints tin, any tin can)
I used the Penguin mint can purchased from www. thinkgeek.
ComFor more information about parts and optional components visit reqTo start, you need to know the board, as you can see from the picture below, the board has two sides.
While playing with copper, the other side is marked in white to show where the copper below is.
The assembly is laid out on the white side and welded to the copper pad below.
In the chart that will appear in a later step, it is important to note that they are displayed at the top, not on what side (left or right).
Jumper leg by backup resistor (
Or capacitor/led leg)
Then bend and put into the hole and weld on the other side.
The picture below shows how I did this.
With my leather man (Or similar tools)
I cut off some of the backup 550 ohm resistor leg that was laid around me.
I found a leg to jump twice.
Clip the legs in the middle with pliers, then I push both sides down to the 90 degree angle.
Put the jumper in a jumper at a time, saving me the trouble of the load falling off at the same time when flipping the circuit board, after welding the leg, clamp the extra jumper with the diagonal cutter (
I use my Leather Man, oh how do I use this tool! )IMPORTANT! ! ! ! !
Please note that both parties (left and right)
Check the jumper frequently (
In the right place before welding.
Once all the jumpers are in place, extra clips, we can start adding the first component.
This figure shows the layout and polarity of the electrical container in this section.
I didn't put the led in this step because I still need the tin box shell, but it should be self-explanatory and negative (black).
I also left the two wires of the battery to the end to prevent the wires from getting in the way of welding. r1=4.
7 k Ω 1/4 W metal film resistor c1 = 220 Ω f/35 v electrolytic capacitors, radial leads bend legs to help keep them in place when the elements are placed there, until the extra legs are caught.
The purpose of this socket is for you to change the op-
Amps does not need to be welded, it also prevents amps from becoming hot and damaged during welding by eliminating the need to weld amps on the circuit board Note: direction of the ic socket, gap at the bottom.
The picture below shows where the legs should be placed, but we will not Weld other components until the next step.
R2 = 100 K 1/4 W metal film resistance r3 = 1 K Ω 1/4 W metal film resistance (
This gives 11 a huge gain and we will change that later, but put 1 k here now.
R4 = 10 k 1/4 W metal film resistance c2 = 0.
1 f metal polyester cap (X2)Radioshack(272-1069)Digikey(E1104)NOTE!
In the chart, it shows that r3 is a resistor, in most cases no resistance is required, and another jumper is used, only if there is distortion if there is no audio source connection, resistance is needed.
So now, like me, weld a jumper instead of r5.
As you will see, I have bent the leg of the resistor to make it look different and I suggest you do the same.
Also need to weld 2 length wires which are shown on the top of the chart, but as shown below, I also welded them below for neatness.
It should also be noted that the amplifier is not in place until the end to avoid pressure due to circuit board heat during welding.
I suggest you use the continuity tester (Multimeter)
Test from the welded bridge and shorts and remember where the jumper is.
This can be skipped, however.
Now, the first step is to weld the wires on all the pins of the headphone jack, about 2 inch in length.
Once completed, we can weld the potentiometer (
These are not connected to the AMP until later, so you don't need to worry about the layout, just weld a length of wire on each Jack pin and jar, see below)
Your jack layout may vary, but it's usually from the top (
Close to the hole)
From right to bottom left.
Note: I mean input.
Thus, il ir and ig represent left-input right-input and input places that match the abbreviations of the final layout diagram on the next page, as shown in the following figure, listing all connections of the Jack and pot, take a few minutes to get to know it all.
Once all of this is connected correctly, these images actually complete all the calls in this section, soldering your power (9v battery)and turn it on.
Before you insert anything, please have a feeling for all the parts, check if there is any heat, if it does get hot, please remove the battery, check if there is a welding bridge on the lower side and also make sure everything matches the chart.
Next, just plug in your headphones, fill up the gain, listen to any static sound, and if everything is fine, plug in your mp3 player and take it to the test drive.
Again, check the circuit if anything doesn't work, as you may have noticed that you can't go further without distortion, which is due to high gain, we will now replace R3 with a resistor that reduces the gain, and now we know that the circuit is stable. 2. 0 KΩ gain 62. 5 KΩ gain 53. 3 KΩ gain 44.
7 k Ω gain 310 k Ω gain 2I replace mine with 2.
The gain of 2 k Omega stor is about 6, which works well for me.
Once you are satisfied with the proceeds, you can put it in tinNote: the image of the finished amplifier used in this manual shows another cmoy that I use the Panasonic pan, and the toggle switch used in series with the power supply.
I didn't get any images of this as it was very straight and drilled a hole large enough for the parts to go through and through the hole.
Keep in mind: use insulating tape, foam or cut rubber pads to insulate the bottom of the tin.
This will stop shorting.
Once it's done, enjoy it!
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I also took part in the thinkgeek competition because not only did I buy tin from thinkgeek, but they also offered a mint tin cmoy which shows you how to make famous