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how to build a basement hydroponic garden - poly sheeting

by:Cailong     2019-08-07
how to build a basement hydroponic garden  -  poly sheeting
This is the water ploughing garden I started in the basement a few months ago.
It is automated by Raspberry Pi and some control boards.
I am now growing kale, beans, tomatoes, radish tails, peppers, lettuce, radicalization, rhubarb, parsley and basil.
Skills required this manual only covers the construction of the plant, not the setup and maintenance of the plant.
I have to apologize, although I took a lot of photos during the construction of this project, I still missed a lot, so some photos were taken afterwards, I added a few raw mixers
Images that help understand.
This Instructure is more organized than the way I actually set up the garden, so some of the image content may seem inconsistent, but should apply to these steps.
Why am I doing this?
Over the years, I 've been involved intermittently in the hydroponics, and earlier this year my wife an heard that some companies have transformed containers into hydroponics, mainly producing a single type of non-Hydroponics
Flowering vegetables-
See farming or freight farm.
A container of 40 feet can apparently produce rough goods equivalent to one acre of produce.
We are very interested in this because it may be something that needs to be worked hard and involved in the future, but we want to know more --
Because I am a learning person. by-
I decided to clean my basement myself (
Last good reason)
Change the old 6x 7 feet Coal House to a hydroponics garden as dense as possible and try to answer these questions.
As with any family garden, this is an added benefit (
No pesticides)
Are children often fascinated by food creations that seem "magical? You can pick and eat food when it comes out of the ground.
My son has been helping me on this project and now has this charm as well.
The more our kids know about how food goes to the table, the better!
In this case, another benefit of hydroponics is that plants usually grow much faster than standard gardens, so it looks more magical.
My settings include 2 Flood and drainage tables (
Also called the tide)
Under a dedicated led as a nutrient growth zone and under a 400 watt metal halogen lamp as a flowering zone, there is a set of 4 Flood/drain pipes.
Each area has its own water/nutrient reservoir and water pump.
Also involving exhaust fans (
Minimize the possibility of increased humidity and mold problems)
, A space heater and an aquarium water heater to help increase the temperature of nutrient water when re-heatingfillings.
The day-to-day operation of pumps, lights and fans comes from a bank consisting of 8 independently controlled 120 volt outlets.
These sockets are managed by the 8-port Sainsmart trunk, which is controlled by the Phidget interface board and the Raspberry Pi, for which I have written a Python-based time and sensor event system. Why Python?
I have worked in most other languages but I want to learn Python, why not?
I also have a PHP page on the Pi that interfaces with Python programs that allow to view the current status of all sensors and relays and manually control each outlet
Everything can be operated manually via a smartphone!
There are sensors on the Phidget I/O board that can be measured: for the setup and maintenance of nutrients, I also have a digital handheld PH and PPM meter.
Phometer is a tool for measuring the acidity of nutrients, and PPM meter provides the following partsper-
Million measurement of dissolved solids (plant food)
In nutritious water
I have tried to make sure all the materials used (Such as PVC)are potable (
Safe to Drink)
But not all the needed parts are drinkable, so I let it slide a little, but keep it to a minimum.
We don't want nasty chemicals to ooze out of the surface and be taken away by the products we intend to eat.
Many thanks to the people provided by the Ontario growers for providing a lot of knowledge and answering many of my questions. Disclaimer-
If you try it yourself, you take the risk yourself. hmm. . .
What else can I nag before I go on. . . .
You will want to choose a space near/easily accessible: You first need to find a space that can ventilate to the outside --
I can't emphasize this too much!
You will have a lot of vegetation, operating moving water and electric lights in a small space
It produces quite a bit of humidity.
If you don't want mold to ruin your home or your health, you must have a way to release the air outside.
You need electricity, of course.
So your location needs to be wired already or be able
It is best to use special circuits.
Water and drainage due to the need for occasional replacement of nutritious water and also the need to clean the various parts of the system from time to time, you will want to get the water and drain directly.
I installed a laundry bucket.
This job is equivalent to installing a bathroom or dryer style vent on the side of your house.
In my coal room, the old chute has been sealed with wooden boards, making it easy to cut a hole and install a small vent outside.
Install power this project is close to water with original power
Make sure that the circuit you are using has a ground fault circuit breaker (GFI)installed.
This will help protect you and your device.
The lights and pumps in my project may not use more than 600 watts or so at any time, but the heater uses nearly 800 watts of power in a low setting, which is combined, A circuit of 15 am p can be provided.
So I only set up a 15 am p circuit for this project
You don't want other devices to accidentally trip your circuit breaker and kill your lights --
It takes a few minutes to start the metal halogen lamp properly, the power break will confuse it, so it will not start again until it is powered on for a long time
Execute the loop.
I wired the room and had a power outlet on each of the two frame walls and a ceiling light.
GFIs tends to be very expensive as part of the circuit breaker, so as seen in the photo, I chose a socketbased GFI in-line.
Whatever you do, follow your local electrical specifications for the safety of yourself and others, or hire an electrician.
The drain from the laundry pipe is rough. The room needs to be sealed in plastic, but this will make the installation of the drain pipe difficult.
So before we go so far, the drain is rough. . .
There is already a drain in the room, which makes it easy to temporarily install a small laundry bucket, install a drain, and then remove the bathtub.
Call your plumber friend for help.
Get white polyethylene to cover the entire space.
I bought the volume 25 (10' wide)
Polyfilm from local growing shops.
Black on one side and white on the other.
I have also seen this in many hardware stores, so it is not difficult to find it.
You want White to enter the interior so that the plant can get as much light as possible from the reflection.
We also want to turn the room into a negative one. Pressure space-
The air coming out of the House will penetrate into the room. while the to-be-
Installation exhaust fan is running)
The air coming out of the room
Therefore, there will be no entry of moisture into the house and no mold problems will arise.
Completely cover the walls and ceiling with a DingTalk gun.
If you have air
Like me, pipes can be tricky in some places.
Since my two walls have no frame, the Poly there is just nailed to the top and hung.
I like to make Poly a little longer and make it come on a few inches of floor.
I don't put Poly on the floor because any water will make it very slippery and dangerous.
Make sure you cut a hole to allow access to the air
Vents and power outlets.
Cover the seams with packing tape to seal the room, but don't worry too much --
You don't want it to be completely sealed anyway because we do want some air in.
When covering, please pay attention to the position of the wall beam and ceiling beam-
May use permanent markers to Mark strange positions on white polygons
You need to know where the wood can be connected to hooks, boards, etc. . . Permanently re-
Install laundry barrels. As described -
Call your plumber friend back.
Introduction of water source: Since the water source of my house is on the other side of the wall next to the bathtub, I use the garden hose to bring the water in.
Hose connected to Y-
Splitter, I hang a short sprayer on the tub and, if needed, an extra hose length and another sprayer to get anywhere in the room.
When not in use, I always turn off the water on the supervisor Trail --
I can't imagine seeing the pipe burst somewhere after I got home.
I'm sorry, I didn't-
Picture of the progress of the seedling tray.
But it's very simple.
The board sits at a 2x2 "crossover
A wall nail attached to the left side, the right side of the board is screwed to 2x2 "on the ceiling.
The location of the seedling tray basically depends on where I can put this thing --
The rest of the room will be full.
The only space I have left is above the sink.
This is actually awkward because of the need for a stool, I prefer another place, but I can't see any other options other than the floor
I'm worried about bugs.
Since it doesn't take up much space, I can put it elsewhere in the house, but I'm breaking the rules of putting everything in the same space, maybe it should be a little lower than it is now.
I will let you guide people to find a better place for this seedling tray and give me some advice. The seedling tray is just an ordinary seedling tray with a covered garden.
This light is a 24 "T5 fluorescence specially designed for the growth of young plants, and there is also a reflector that can send more light down. Install heavy-
Duffy shelvesI means-
Make sure they're heavy. duty!
My shelf is a metal frame with footprints of 2x5.
I will make flood tray 2 x 4' with 2x6 to support the side.
This means that I will pump more than 60 liters of water on each shelf for a total of 120 kg of water.
Each rack needs to be tilted a little so that the water flows to the drainage side.
To produce a tilt, add wood gaskets between the metal frame and the shelf as needed and fix them on the shelf with small screws.
Installation of hookah installation 3 is quite heavy-
The duty hook enters the ceiling support beam around the area where the light will be extinguished.
By installing a triangle hook around the area and using a chain between the two, you can find any possible location for the metal halogen lamp and the reflector.
When I want my reflector to tilt, the surrounding chain can also be attached to the reflector, resulting in a tilt.
Flood pallets can be purchased and put on shelves directly.
It would be a quick and easy way but could be expensive.
As usual, I chose the difficult way --
2x6 plates are used to support the side, the shelf itself is used to support the bottom, and the pond pad is used to support the water.
This part, as well as the drain pipes, overflow pipes and other pipes, should be a description of themselves.
Maybe next time.
Make the flood control platform side slip and build a wall using 2x6 plates on the edge of the shelf.
In my case, the shelf is 5 feet wide, but I only used 4 feet in the flood area, and the rest is used for storage space.
Drilling drain pipes and overflow holes using a hole saw drain pipe and overflow pipe-
We need this hole to allow tight fit between the drain and the overflow part.
Tank lining-
A very thick vinyl that will be supported by the shelf itself with 2x6 sides.
I found one big enough. 8x6 foot)
Cover two flood shelves on Home Depot online at a very reasonable price.
Cut the 8x6 pond liner in half and put each piece into the flood table.
It's hard to put it neatly in the corner, but trim the excess material and fold it carefully to help you --
But don't trim too much!
You need to have the liner sit directly in the corner of the box or when the water is first filled it will pull it down from your side.
Also, the liner needs to be as flat as possible
Creases contain moisture when emptying and drown the roots. After-thought -
Perhaps sticking the liner to the shelf, placing a large weight when the liner is dry will help the liner eventually become more flat.
I hang a few inches long liner on both sides for binding.
The safe pond linerI began to fix the edge of the pond liner on the first shelf, but it was not until later that he decided to do so for the second time.
It is more or less in place when the water is filled, so only a basic binding is required.
OverviewI purchased 1.
5 "wide tub drain with long threads can go through 3/4 of the rack" and there is still room to add rubber and defense
Friction washers and locks at the bottom-nut of course. Also the 1.
5 "the thread end can be forced to 1.
5 "electric PVC coupling and the beginning of adapting to the 3/4 hose.
Overflow consists of 3/4 "female threaded PVC adapter, 3/4" wide 2.
5 "long male threaded PVC pieces, the same as the 3/4 female elbow thread.
This threaded piece is long enough with an adapter at the top, an elbow at the bottom, and there is still room to fit the threads on both sides tightly.
Prepare linerCut X-on the pond lining at the top of the drain and overflow holes-
However, the range to keep the crack is slightly smaller than the range of the hole.
Don't cut out a whole circle!
We hope the extra liner will help us to work closely together.
Install the drain around the lower flange of the bathtub drain you are installing.
Pass the thread end through the cut vinyl X and through the holes on the shelf.
Tighten the lock nut tightly to the lower side
But be careful that unsolidified Silicon will act as a lubricant and the drain will try to rotate when you do so.
You may need to hold the drain pipe from the top with a pair of pliers.
Install overflow to apply the Teflon tape to the threaded tube at both ends.
Screw the threaded part into the top adapter and leave enough space to go through the padding, shelf and still connect to the elbow.
Apply the silicon filler to the edge of the adapter that will face the liner.
Thread the threading through the liner and attach the elbow tightly.
Put everything in for hours so the silicon can be set up.
We will discuss the rest of the adapter later. . .
LED lights are 4'36w sticks for Philips GreenPower LED production modules that I ordered from commercial lighting products.
You can find more information in this PDF.
The lights do not have a mount bracket, but they have an indent on the side of the top.
I cut 1 clip to support them.
5 "ABS drain, I cut a piece from the side and let it clip the indent and hold the light.
There is a screw on the back of ABS
The hook hanging on the chain.
For the lower flood table, I added the hook to the lower side of the upper shelf and fixed the hook to the led.
For the flood table above, I installed a metal rack strip without a shelf on it and just wrapped the chain around.
In order to support LEDs, hooks are added to the chain.
In this way, I can improve the brightness of the lamp if the plant growth needs.
For flowering areas, in order for more plants to cover a small footprint, I decided to use a plumbing device with 2-5' 2x4s.
To do this, I screwed a piece of plywood 4 inch wide and 5/8 thick along the wall at just over 6 feet height.
I attached a hinge at one end of both 5'2x 4S and the other end of the hinge was screwed into the pine board.
To stretch the bottom of the 2x 4S out of the wall, I used 2x4 shards that were screwed into the bottom of the frame. Note to self -
The bottom support looks fragile.
Will have to support.
The pipe is 4 "PVC with a length of 10 '.
I used 2 of them and cut 4 of them.
The 4' segment.
Remember to gently polish and clean each part of the PVC you will be applying cement.
Do the following for each tube. . .
Ready to install the tube of the overcurrent finish 2-
4 "tube hangers for each tube, attached to the 2x4 reclining.
2 screws per hanger.
Be careful to hang the tube a little lower and drop to the drain end.
The adapter I used to get from 1.
5 The threaded drain end of the 3/4 hose on the flood stage is almost the same as the 4 tube overflow required.
In order to adapt to the overflow on the 4 "tube, we proceed from: to adapt to the drainage on the flood stage: perform the same steps as above, but for step 1, install the threaded brass valve, instead of the PVC rewind insert, use 1 for step 5.
5 "female PVC adapter for electrical pipe-
It's usually gray.
The reason for using the pipe version is that the thread on the pipe version is more suitable for the drain thread (
But still not right).
Assemble the hose for all connections other than the main feedback, which includes: cutting the hose, the length needs to reach the reservoir, and each hose needs a little extra.
Connect and clamp the main water supply of hosesAssemble. The main water supply/drain is a bit complicated.
This is a series of crazy tee and short hoses from the pump to each valve, which is more difficult to describe.
Double check everything is clipped!
When you are ready to test the pipe, install the valve of the pipe permanently, fill the reservoir with about 50 liters and start the pump. Also -
I had to drop in a short paragraph 1.
5 "The PVC in the overflow adapter slightly increases the water level of the plant.
The reservoir is only rubber (or similar)tubs.
You want the tub and lid to be opaque if possible so the light doesn't come in.
The light entering the bathtub will allow more algae to grow in the container
Shoot something with a gun and absorb nutrients from your plants.
You should also make sure that the material for the tub is "soft ".
I tried.
At first it was a plastic tub and it turned out to be crisp enough that when it was filled with water, the bottom cracked and leaked right away.
Note: My reservoir is not transparent enough
I need to cut some more white/black poly film to cover them.
Use 4 submersible pumps-
One pump per Reservoir, a smaller maintenance pump, remove water from the reservoir when cleaning and replenishing water.
I'm not going to delve into how to choose a pump because there are a lot of resources on the Internet, but what I want to point out is that when looking for a pump for a system of this size, the flow rate may not be as important as the "head" height.
This is the maximum height the pump can still push the water.
Make sure the pump you choose can push the water further than the height of the tray or tube.
You should have done this so far, but make sure your pumps are all using hose clamps.
If you don't want to build your own logical controls for this project, there are options to purchase a ready-made system or timer set.
But please keep reading if you do.
Get the Raspberry PI Model B, the right power supply and a micro SD card of at least 2 gb.
My element is Newark 14.
Take care of your power-
I started with a Type B car I was lying in, but then accidentally blew it up and affected the way I powered it.
This forces me to run a few weeks of control program on a spare Linux PC while shipping another Pi.
Install Linux in Raspbian configurationVisit www. raspbian.
Information on this.
Connect it to your network to make sure you can connect to it.
After the motherboard is installed, you can fine-tune the setup of the device and event configuration.
Make sure to install Python, PHP, and Apache web server, and any requirements for the autoHP program that you will need next.
Install the autoHP Python program and web interface-
The information will be on the autoHP GitHub page here.
The whole logic setting is installed on plywood of 1/4.
The socket box is assembled by 4 standard electric boxes and screwed into the board.
The power supply of the box comes from the extended cable where the socket end is cut off.
Please consult an electrician if you are not used to handling wires. As each socket-pair is split -
Control alone-
They need to be dealt with like a split.
Sockets installed in the kitchen. The hot (brass)
The side of the socket requires a label between the top and bottom of each removal.
The ground wire from the power supply and each socket is connected together.
Due to the number of wires, this pig
Track several groups together at a time.
Like the ground wire, the neutral line from the power supply and every socket --
A pair is connected together.
Group finished again.
The heat source of the Hot smart relay board and all the feed wires are connected together. The switched-
The hotline coming back from the trunk will reach the top and the bottom will get hot (brass)
Side of each outlet.
The relay plate is mounted on plywood with a bracket
Screws and plastic eyelets.
The hot wire in the socket box is connected to the intermediate connector of each relay.
The switched hotline returns from the left side of each relay.
There are 10 wire connections between the trunk and the Phidget board-
One ground, one 5 v, and eight I/O lines of the digital output port.
Note: I need to change this
The power supply of the control relay board comes from the I/O board.
For protection, the 5 v power supply to the relay board should come from a separate power supply.
Phidget 8/8 Phidget is also installed on plywood with brackets
Screws and plastic eyelets.
In addition to connecting to the trunk, it also connects to the USB cable of the PI and its power supply.
Raspberry PI mounted on plywood with bracket
There are screws and plastic buttonholes.
It has its own power supply and is also connected to my home network.
All devices on the control board are connected to UPS-
Except for the plug box.
The box is directly attached to the wall.
This is a small UPS that may provide a backup for the logic system for several hours, but it is not big enough to support lights and pumps at any time.
We just want to prevent the logic from being broken.
Due to the amount of water around, I installed this control board from the 2x2 hanging from the ceiling for safety.
The main build is over, but it's done. . .
That's how I put my hydroponics garden together, and if you do the same, you're ready.
I 've been adding steps to start the seedlings, set up nutrient water, and everything else, but it's just getting too complicated and no one will want to read in one breath.
So I have to write a new one for the running of this system at another time-
This is still an ongoing work.
Hope you like it!
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