how to make your own polymer stamps - transparency film
Make your own transparent rubber stamp (
For Clay, polymer clay, fabric, paper, or anything you can think.
This is a simple process that allows you to make stamps with almost any black and white image you can think of, and you can make stamps with the size you like.
They are also much cheaper than commercial rubber stamps.
About 25 cents per square inch.
Once you understand the basics, the process of making a polymer seal is fairly simple.
To put it simply, photopolymer is a liquid polymer that reacts to ultraviolet rays and becomes hard when exposed.
Knowing this, negative films can be made, allowing only UV light to be displayed through the position of the stamp image.
The negative and polymer is exposed, the excess polymer is washed away, leaving your custom rubber stamp.
You need to make two pieces of equipment to show your rubber stamp, although the two pieces of equipment are very simple to make.
The first is the UV exposure light.
If you think you might be doing a lot of rubber stamp making, I will invest in a fluorescent light fixture with UV light (black light)bulbs to fit.
You will need to attach two 6 ° x 6 ° planks on the side of the lamp and raise it 4 ° from the surface of the table.
Some fixtures need to be wired, which can be done easily by cutting off the parent end of the 6 ° extension cord and connecting directly to the fixture.
In order to make the fixture easy to use, the on/off switch can also be connected to the lamp to make it easier to turn off the lamp between exposures.
For those of you who don't want to connect the fixture, another solution is to simply purchase a clip lamp and hang it 4 inch from the desktop.
They are attached with wires and open the button at the top of the fixture.
You can purchase a pan-light black light bulb suitable for your light fixture.
The second piece of equipment is the glass exposure panel.
These are just two matching pieces of 8-inch x-8-inch single pain clear glass, and the edges are wrapped with tape to keep your hands away from the sharp edges.
Place the tape on both sides along two parallel edges of the glue plate.
This will keep the plates together and prevent them from moving during exposure.
Materiallight fixture and digital timer for UV BulbDeveloper platform (
Seconds must be measured)
Photo polymer rinse solution substrate film shield suede clear film two containers for placing liquid gentle scrub or toothbrush baby powder, corn starch or clear acrylic or plexiglass for installation of stampsPink
This will allow only UV rays to penetrate the polymer of your choice.
To create a negative number, first select or draw a black and white image with bold lines or shapes.
This is because fine lines do not survive well during the flushing process and do not leave a deep impression in the clay.
If you just want to use your stamp like a traditional rubber stamp, you can have finer details on the stamp.
Your image must be a strong black and white contrast with no grayscale or shadow.
Once you have your image, you need to translate it into negative.
This means making the black part White and the white part black.
This is easy to do in most graphics programs and will usually be listed as the "reverse color" command.
You can also design your negative image by hand if you are more interested, although it is a more time consuming process.
The last step in creating an image is to translate the image into a transparent movie (
Type for projector)
Can be purchased from any office supplies store.
If you are creating your image by hand, then you need to paint the negative space of your design with opaque paint.
The paint pen is very effective in this regard.
If you are going to print the negative from your computer, make sure that using the laser transparent film in the laser printer of the negative will not be opaque enough to block excess light.
If you are trying to use regular transparent film in a laser printer, you will melt the film onto the print head, which is a very expensive mistake.
Once a negative number is created, you can start preparing the exposure unit.
It is a good idea to arrange everything and prepare it, because the photosensitive polymer is photoreactive and will soon form an exposed polymer even in ambient light.
Place the lamps on a level with a meat spread or vinyl tablecloth to protect the surface.
Add two cups of warm water and 1 tablespoon in one of the liquid containers.
Concentrate on one side.
Add 1 inch of cold water to another shallow container for standby.
Cut the negatives from the larger paper, leaving at least 1/2 of the black border on the edge of the image.
Place the negative piece on the inner cover of half the glass plate, surround the image with a moisture-proof band, leave a small gap at any edge, and let the excess light gather ease from the edge.
Trim a substrate to the same size and negative and leave it aside.
After completing this preparation, you can now proceed with the exposure process.
Gently pour the liquid light Poly onto the negative sheet and fill the space until the level of the dam tape.
If there are bubbles, pop up quickly but carefully with a needle.
Place the base plate with the frosted side down on the photosensitive polymer to make sure there are no bubbles at the bottom, otherwise the stamp will fall off later.
Place the other side of the glass unit on top to ensure that the magnet remains intact.
When the glass is compressed, you may notice some penetration on the negative edge. This is normal.
Center the unit in the light, the base plate side up and set the timer to approximately.
30 seconds 1 minute(
Exact development time will vary depending on the light, experiment on some smaller stamps to get the exact time you dial in).
Turn on the lights and develop within the specified time.
This forms the background of stamps.
Flip the device and develop the same time on the other side and turn off the lights.
Now is the time to start the flushing process.
Immediately separate the two halves of the glass and peel off the negative pole of the polymer.
Always peel off the negative pole from the polymer, not from the substrate, otherwise the stamp will not have a good rinse backing.
Put the polymer image into the rinse solution and scrub it gently with a fine brush or soft toothbrush until all the excess liquid polymer is dissolved from the surface of the stamp.
Rinse in water to remove the last part of the rinse solution.
At this point, you can remove the excess hardened polymer.
Place the stamp in a normal water container and expose it under UV for 10 minutes.
This completely hardened the stamp and made it less tacky.
Depending on what you intend to do with it, there are two ways to adjust the stamps you have completed.
If you make an impression on soft clay with your stamp, then just sprinkle talc or baby powder on your stamp, separate it from clay and prevent it from becoming vulgar
If you want to use ink, you can rough the surface of the image with a pink eraser.
This allows the ink to stick on the stamp long enough to make the image.
Your stamps are now available and enjoyed.