octagonal greenhouse - buy polycarbonate panels
I have been dreaming of having a greenhouse for years and am not happy with any kit outside.
I want to find a place.
In winter, some favorite plants start new plants later in winter.
It's just an experiment, so I want to minimize the cost as gardening is just an emerging hobby for me.
It needs to look pleasant and look like it belongs to my property.
I first found the best place to get the biggest sun exposure to the south and get full sunshine from east to west, especially when the sun angle is low in winter.
I thank everyone who took the time to post their ideas, plans and photos for all of us --it-yourselfers.
I have benefited from many things.
I want to record the stages of this project and hope to give some ideas to others.
I am willing to upload to this document if you need more details or images.
After I worked out the plan, I put a nail on the ground and attached some hemp ropes to the spray cans and nails and marked a circle to dig the foundation.
The Bobcats will deal with granite and clay very quickly, but I chose the hard way with picks and shovels.
Next, I built a base so I could build a concrete form.
I use scrap 1/2 "BCX to build the form directly around the base.
It's a bit flimsy so I have the corner and the support done from one side to the other so I can move it to this position.
I identified the real north/south before placing the stakes to ensure the form is safe, so one wall will be perpendicular to the north/south line.
The string in the first picture is the North/South line.
I partially beat the stake and then place the level in multiple positions and move the highs down with a mallet.
I had previously flooded the hole to soften the clay for final leveling.
The high point that stretches out of the water is easy to level with the back of the rake son.
In hindsight, I should have made the form a bit deeper.
I am not happy with the size and weight of it as the place I live is very high. wind area.
I see that most people just build their 4x4 under pressure.
I hope my base is stronger than the pressure-treated wood.
So I built an octagonal shape on each side and made eight ladders and I later fixed it in the proper position with mortar.
This allows me to backfill the original base and leave the block on top so I don't have wood touching the ground.
The first picture was a pile of recycled mahogany with old red paint that used to be my boss's front deck.
I threw away a set of planing knives to remove most of the paint and some raised particles from the wind.
Most of the knot holes are rotten, but the wood is still intact under paint and surface weathering.
The second photo is the same base as shown in the above figure a few minutes after using a Sander.
I tore 2x6 mahogany to 2x4. The cut-
The splints and decorative work at the back will come in handy.
The King nail is 72 ", the base is 28 1/2", and the window sill is 27 ".
I fixed the King's DingTalk on the base of the 22nd with Simpson's strong tie. 5 degree angle.
When all eight were ready, I cut seven windowsills.
Each side of the windowsill needs to be oblique to 22. 5 degrees.
Sills was set to 23.
5 "from the top of the bottom plate ".
I want to make the most of the outside wall panels of commom 4'x 8.
Due to the loss of some width or length of the cut on the saw blade, I thought I would reduce the size to get the perfect fit.
The octagonal side is opened in order to open a rough opening for the door.
Then I cut eight more pieces, the same as the base, and fixed them to the top of the bolt of the wall cap using the same bolt tie belt as the base.
Next is the decoration/splints used to install windows and lower wall panels.
I didn't say it before, but I did some research on the materials used in the greenhouse.
I like the corrugated polycarbonate for windows or glass windows.
The problem is that it has only 26 "wide panels" and it turns out that they are only 25 3/4.
So I reverse designed the entire structure of the window with a width of 26 "and decided the height based on the common length.
I want the least waste.
The splints for the windowsill, base and wall cap are 26 "x 1 3/8 wide ".
I gouged off the paint for all 2 "x2" deck track spindles, which made the finished product size 3/8 "x 1 3/8 ".
They lean back 1 "from the edge of the windowsill to explain the depth of the horizontal closed strip and panel of polycarbonate.
I used a small Carpenter Square to lay pencil lines for the position of the splint.
The edge is recline to 22 again. 5 degrees.
For vertical splints I used cutting
Tear off 2x4 from 2x6.
Then I set my table saw blade to 22.
5 degrees and tear this angle so that the splints are flush with the studs and parallel to each exterior wall to facilitate the installation of window glass and lower panels.
At this point my son and I moved the structure to the foundation.
I fixed the structure to concrete with Tapcon screws.
The screws are great because they punch holes for the screws along with the masonry bit.
The second picture is the top view of the Ridge Block/compression ring that connects the raf child.
I'm not sure how high I need it because I did it before making any plans.
I used 7 "in case my glue
Up is not the best, I need to trim the end.
I used two rows of cookies and Titebond III. The glue-
It was nice to get up and I left the whole length.
I cut a reverse chamfer at the end of the raf Sub connected to the corner of the ridge block.
If you would like to learn more details on how I did this, I will remake the end of the raf Sub and take pictures on the table.
Connect the end by driving the screw from the internal lower part and the external upper part.
The relationship between After and Simpson is very close.
Finally, I bought the new green Douglas fir for raf son.
I need to close the greenhouse in the air outside.
I cut 2x4 Wood to do this.
First, I measured the distance between the raf children.
I set the table saw to tear the edge of the 30 degree chamfer so that when the roof substrate is installed, it will flush with the raf Sub and block with minimal air clearance.
Next, I oblique the edge to 22.
5 degrees to fit between the raf children.
The last picture is from the outside, there are two inside.
The window is made of decorative pieces torn into 22.
5 degrees to fit the opening.
A vertical fragment, or stiles, is a fragment of 2x2 torn into 22. 5 degrees.
The track is just a normal 90 degree part of the 2x2 cut length.
The penultimate picture shows a small 45 degree chamfer I cut so that the window doesn't hang on the windowsill when it opens.
I found this after installing them.
The last picture was seen from inside and the window was closed.
I want extra ventilation for summer and would like to be completely closed on very cold days.
I need a door at this point.
I started with the four DingTalk in the first picture.
I measured the rough opening and subtracted 1/4 from the height and width.
The track end and the window end are diagonally connected to 22. 5 degrees.
The length is a rough opening minus 1/4 "minus the thickness of two 2x4.
I measured the position of the windowsill so that it could match the surrounding walls and be visually displayed on the plane.
I trimmed the window opening and the lower panel opening with the same decoration used on the wall.
Still need to accommodate transparent polycarbonate panels and lower wall panels.
I opened the door with a 1/8 thick gasket, paused and in place, and when I marked the hinge position and used a chisel to cut the hinge, fixed the door firmly in place with a clip.
I also cut a channel above the hinge pin so I can knock them out later if I need to remove the door.
Traditional hinge Group
Up will deny this step.
At this point in construction, I am working on it.
In hindsight, I have some better ideas.
My Ridge block is open as a vent.
I need to avoid the rain, but I can get the heat out.
The picture on the left is the stove I made.
The wall is tilted 10 degrees.
I drilled two 1 "holes in each wall and finished the oval with a rolling saw.
I then used a small sand Mill drum in the drilling machine to smooth the cutting.
I use this website to calculate the angle.
The top is created by gluing a 9 "x 9" panel from 2x4.
I take it a little bit bigger so I can tear it off when the glue is dry and cut to the final size.
Once this was done, I cut off all the corners at 45 degrees.
I then made a fixture to guide the panel through the table on the edge, similar to the idea of unlocking the fixture.
I set the table saw blade to 10 degrees and maximum height and made 8 through the saw blade, 1 on each side.
To separate the intact parts from a 10 degree cut, I set the height of the desktop saw blade to 1/2 and set the fence 7 to the distance from the blade.
I made eight channels, the panel on the surface, separated the pieces left on the vertical channel, created the small cap section on the roof of the stove, as shown in the first picture.
I was excited to finish this so I didn't take a picture of the steps.
I'm willing to come again.
Create this work to show how I did it.
The last two photos are what I came up with to open and close the vents.
I took an Oak about 1 "x 1.
I drilled a 3/8 hole in the center.
I then place a hex nut on the top, mark the edge of the nut, and cut a groove on the top with a chisel to embed the nut in about half the depth.
I cut a 1/2 octagonal shape from plywood and turned a handle on the lathe.
I drilled the handle of the 3/8 threaded rod and embedded the nut on the upper end.
Next, I cut the screw bar into length and fix the bar on the handle.
I then installed some weather stripping devices on the lower side of the ridge block and attached the entire assembly thread to the upper block shown in figure 3.
Figure 4 is the vent is closed.
Again, I want to use this feature in winter.
The upper vent is screened with Batten blocks and bound in the appropriate position.
Of course, the paint is self-explanatory.
I removed the doors, windows and hinges for this step.
The paint on the hinge looks sloppy.
The roof is a mystery.
I used the LP Tech Shield radiation barrier on the roof deck.
I like to reflect the surface to reflect more light inside the structure and hope it will generate more heat inside.
Now that the structure is done, it works a little too well.
It's October and when I painted the shelf, all the vents, windows and doors were opened and very warm.
The eight panels I cut are Ladder-shaped, just like the picture of the asphalt wood tile above in the second picture.
The size varies slightly, so each size is measured and cut separately.
Once screwed in place, I installed a flashing drip edge to cover the thickness and top of the r tail.
If you build this structure, 2 bundles 3-
The Tab asphalt tile is enough, especially when the course of the tile is getting narrower and narrower, if you plan to cut back on using a smaller tile.
I use asphalt felt as the bottom layer.
I only use about 38 feet of the volume, so do it if you can get a part of it, otherwise you will have a lot of the remaining volume.
If you have never done this before, please refer to a website that provides instructions for the roof.
I didn't record it because it was a tedious step.
If you have an assistant to do the cutting for you, you can stay on the ladder and continue the DingTalk.
The roof took me a whole day to get it done because every tile needed to be cut, including cutting off the label from the start up process. These cut-
On the eight ridges formed, offs came in handy as a ridge cap.
The windows are easy to cut in length with tin and are fitted with 1 1/4 screws designed for the polycarbonate panel.
I watched a video on the panel manufacturer's website about cutting and installation.
I could have used 1 screw at this step.
The lower panel is cut out from 2 pieces of exterior siding and painted with two layers of generous exterior paint.
They are screwed into the splint that starts to be installed.
The four panels have just been cut into small size.
The other four, I cut the rough opening for the vent, allowing a 1/2 border to be screwed in.
Inside the opening, I built a vent box that cut dados on the long side to accommodate the enclosed panel inside.
I can take pictures and upload them to this document if you would like to see these details.
I don't have any plans at this point.
Again, on the coldest, snowy days, I want to block the building.
At this stage I still have the remaining decorative track spindle pieces made of 2x2.
I used the remaining 2x6 material and I tore it into 2x2 for the rest of the time I needed.
I use some 2x3 rail pieces as Ledger boards and edge support beams to support 2x2 shelves.
After the event, it seems that painting these parts in advance is ten times faster.
Better with sprayer.
Without the drawing arm, my drawing skills are limited and I don't have training in 2D CAD programs either, so I usually stick with drawings, rulers and front/side/Top elevation elevations.
Unfortunately I just visualize most of my projects and I usually scribble down my material list on a scratch paper.
Now is April of 2016 greenhouse is very well achieve its target.
While doing some research, I read that the heat of water is four times that of earth and concrete.
I added six five.
The gallon barrel filled with the lid was filled with water almost all the way.
They are placed under the shelf.
This helped keep the night low at 45 degrees Fahrenheit, when outside temperatures had fallen to teenage and twenties in April.
Once February comes, I can't wait for the growing season, and when the end of the month comes, I plant all the seeds for this year's garden.
I started everything in the seed breeding tray and after about three weeks I had to replant almost everything.
The photos were taken a month ago in early April.
I have a day or two to worry that my plants will die because of the cold, so I run an extension cord and a heating light inside the structure so that my plants can stand it twiceday snow storm.
In the winter, I built some new raised planting beds with a detachable cold frame.
My zucchini got too big in the Cup and I was forced to plant them and they thrive in the cold frame of the raised bed.
My wife asked for some steps to climb the structure, so I pushed the trolley around the house to collect granite and basalt slabs as steps.
All the plants in the picture above are ten times as big as the sun.
I was in Zone 6 and I waited patiently for the last frost date to put most of my vegetables on the ground.
My tomatoes and shrubby beans are already the size you bought from the center of the garden.
In hindsight, I would like the size of the structure to be at least doubled.
I have a 72 cell and a 50 cell breeding tray and once I start to replant the seedlings I don't have the sun-filled shelf space.
I was a little crazy with this year's chili variety.
April 2017: last season, I opened the window with a stick.
I want something more to open the window so I started looking around the Internet for ideas.
I don't remember where my idea came from, but I have made plans for wooden hardware.
All I have to do is cut everything off, drill the window jambs, install the threaded plug-in to hold 1/4 shipping bolts locked on the wheel with washers, nuts, as the second nut of jamb nut and the second gasket for sliding of the window pillar.
The handwheel was cut from the 3/4 "Red Oak.
Window props were cut from 3/4 plywood.
Use high-quality plywood with minimum core void.
Refer to my plan and compare it with the picture.