passive solar garage door - twin wall polycarbonate sheet
Can the door heat your workshop for free?
In this Instructure I will show you how I used the sun to build passive sun doors to help heat up my garage workshop!
Here is an overview of the video.
What is passive solar energy?
While passive solar energy is in many forms, this term is generally used to refer to building details, building orientation, the use of Windows, the direct entry of sunlight into the building and absorption by heavy materials, thereby heating the building.
This usually means South.
Facing the window with wide protruding objects above.
When the sun is low in the sky, the prominent part allows the sun to pass through the window (
But when the sun is high in the sky, the window is covered.
This is a very different concept from the various positive solar strategies, including the types of photovoltaic, solar power generation.
I have designed a photovoltaic system to power my home, garage and electric vehicle (
See the details here ,)
But I want to heat my garage workshop with the sun in the winter too!
Passive solar energy is simple.
It mainly depends on the orientation of the building and the glass window.
A window material that allows the light to come in, but prevents the return of heat.
Glass can be glass, plastic or other similar material.
Most of us are familiar with how warm the Green weather is.
House, even in the middle of winter!
Even without glass, humans have used the natural heat of the Sun since ancient times.
I remember when I was in elementary school, I learned about Mesa Cape Verde, where the Indians built a full village on the edge of the cliff.
The sun shines on it in winter, and the cliff is deep in the village in summer. (
You can now visit as a national park. )
When I built my garage, I designed it with a 5 inch thick cement board.
Under the board is hard Bubble insulation 2 ".
When the sun shines on the concrete, the heat is absorbed.
Because the concrete is insulated under and at the edges, the only place where the heat needs to go is re-heating
Radiation to the garage.
It's like a "hot flywheel" that helps maintain a stable temperature.
My garage door is completely insulated.
About the highest R-
The value of commercial doors.
My plan is to build a window in front of the garage door.
In the sunny winter, I can lift my insulated door and let the light and heat enter.
In the evening, or in the cloudy or snowy winter, the garage door is put down to keep the heat inside.
I still want to be able to get a car in and out of my garage, so I designed it as a door to separate from the middle, not a big window with hinges on the left and right sides.
The best part of solar thermal heating? It's FREE!
Before we start, we need to know what tools and materials are needed for the project.
Basically, this is a straightforward wood-
Work items, so it's mainly tools for a typical store.
Tools: The project is mainly constructed of wood and plexiglass.
The materials used in the project are as follows: from the material, I need to build the wooden frame of the door.
The style of the door will be a pair, which hinge on the outer edge and meet in the middle.
This is often referred to as the French gate ".
Measurements twice: I started by measuring the rough opening of the existing garage door frame.
9 feet wide, 7 feet high.
For simplicity, we will use these numbers in this example, although they are not perfect in the real world.
The opening is slightly out of the square and a bit bent on one side.
We built the new solar storm Gate Square and the original opening size, but at the time of installation, plan the external edges as needed to best match the opening.
The door will also exceed the threshold of 2x4, so 1.
Subtract 5 inch from the bottom of the door height.
Cut once: once I have the proper size, I cut the 1x6 board in the vertical industry into length.
I temporarily put the column outside and started to imagine what the finished door would look like and realized that the pair 1x6 s in the middle looked too big.
It also blocks more light than it needs.
I decided that for a piece of wood perpendicular to the center, I would tear a piece of 1x6 on the table in halfsaw.
This gives the door a better proportion and maximize the glass windows.
The width of the plexiglass is 48 inch.
The total width of the door is 108 inch.
The plexiglass also needs to overlap the wood and I decided to overlap an entire inch on both sides.
46 "x 2 = 92 inch. 108 -92 = 16 inches.
Three vertical 1x6 boards make up the 16 inch required to fully fill the door width.
The vertical direction is cut to the height of the door, minus the height of the threshold.
I cut the four horizontal plates into 46 inch each.
This is the width of the plexiglass minus an inch of overlap on both sides.
Dowling: I connect the board with wood
Work pins and glue.
All the planks lay flat on the floor of my garage.
We marked the position of the pin with a pencil, drilled 1/8 holes accurately, and then drilled 5/16 holes.
And then these are done.
Suitable for testing and calibration. .
A person can also replace the pin with wood.
Job cookies or pockets-screws.
Making SQAURE: Once all the holes are drilled out and the pins are tested, we need to glue the frame and make sure it is square.
A simple square can be placed in each corner to check the square, but using a tape measure is a better way to test.
Rectangular shape (
Such as these doors)
Measured from two opposite corners.
Then measure from the other two opposite corners.
The measurement is the oblique edge of two triangles.
If the two measurements are the same, they are right triangle-
Perfect 90 degree angle.
Clamp it: we stick the pins together, assemble the frame, and make a triangle measurement.
They just need to adjust it a little.
This is done by pushing the opposite corner of the longer dimension.
Then we unscrew a piece of waste wood and fix it in the right place.
I don't have a long bar clip (
Usually used for larger Wood
So we used the ratchet. straps.
They are usually used to fix loads on trucks and trailers, but there are many uses, including clamping large parts when it comes to glue covers.
We let the frame dry overnight to solidify the glue.
Wiring: in order to make room to insert the plexiglass, I need to cut a groove on the wood.
This can be easily achieved using a router with a "Rabbet" bit.
The router drill bit has a bearing at the tip that allows it to follow the shape of the wood.
The diameter of the bearing determines the width of the cut.
The maximum width that this bit can do is 1/2.
I tested the depth of the router bit and made it just hair deeper than the thickness of 3/16 "plexiglass.
I then picked up a piece of wood and confirmed that the plexiglass would be placed inside.
Next, I wired the interior of the two wood frames.
In order to get the full 1 inch groove, I switched to a position where there is no bearing, clamping a plate on the frame to prevent the router from exceeding 1 inch and routing for the second time. (
I am not particularly experienced in routing.
If I do this again, I may simply decide on the width of the groove that makes the plexiglass, regardless of the maximum width that I can pass through once with rabbeting bit.
There are other ways to cut Rabbe, such as putting a special blade on the tablesaw. )
Because the rotation bit of the router is round, the angle I cut is round, not square.
I need to finish the corner in order for the plexiglass to fit.
I did it with a traditional wood cut, hit the chisel with a hammer and cut into the corner.
After that, the wooden frame was ready to accept organic glass.
First, the organic glass needs to be cut into length.
I looked up how to cut the plexiglass and most of the information covered with the use of electric saw blades in very special styles at certain speeds.
It seems to me that it would be easier to use the "score and snapshot" method. SCORE!
Since the garage door entrance is only 7 feet high, I also need to consider the frame and the threshold and the acrylic fiber will be cut about 6 feet. The 2 foot cut-
Other future projects will save money.
I measured where my cut was, marked it, and fixed the drywall square to a straight oneedge.
When I was holding a tool knife, I found a carpet knife to work well.
The carpet knife has a large handle and the blade does not grab or go deep into the drywall square like a regular knife.
I dragged the knife 50 times and got the full width of the plexiglass. BEND. . . . AND SNAP!
Next, I line up the scoring line on a hard edge.
We used spare 1x6 but any square edge of table or work-
Just the bench.
With a steady pressure drop, and a fraction of the edge of the wood, the plexiglass breaks clearly.
Sticking and caulking: I tested putting the plexiglass into the wood frame.
I found a few places where my line was not wide enough.
I marked those with a pencil and then came back and went a little further.
I then test again if the plexiglass is appropriate until it is.
Once appropriate, I ran a loop of caulking agent all the way through the routing slot and finally put the acrylic resin into the frame.
I also put a piece of 1x6 scrap in the middle of the frame to prevent possible sagging of acrylic resin.
I also stripped the bonded wax paper from the edge of the plexiglass.
Blocking: Next, I cut the pieces of 1x6 to about 9 inch long.
I screwed each one into four corners of the frame.
This strengthens the connection of the corners and holds the plexiglass in place.
I also cut smaller parts and screwed them into the center side of the frame in a longer direction.
Other options: While I have selected acrylic for this project, there are definitely other options.
The glass is heavy and brittle, but has a large transparency. Twin-
The Wall-type polyester is very durable and less expensive compared to plexiglass, but also less transparent.
This material is usually used in greenhouses due to its combination of strength and economy.
Part of the reason I chose plexiglass is that it transmits 92% of the light.
Under normal circumstances, the content of double-wall polycarbonate is about 85%.
While that doesn't sound like much, it's twice the loss.
I want to maximize the heat through my window.
There is glass in the door and it is time to install them on the opening of the garage door.
We installed it first.
Half the door.
We know that the door frame of the garage is a bit inappropriate on the left.
By installing the right door first, we can put the other door in half and find out and trim or other work needed.
We got it right.
Put half on the shelf and on the 2x4 scrap block and gasket.
I screwed two hinges.
One bottom at a time-
Once we got half the door flat.
The back of the door will more or less stop relative to the decoration that the original garage door is already in place.
Once everything is in place, an intermediate hinge is added.
Then we put the position on the left.
Half the door.
This half needs to be planed down at the bottom outside.
We used a power supply.
Flatten and trim the edge of the door until it fits.
Once in place, supported by blocks and gaskets, there is even a 1/8 gap between the doors, and we installed the hinges in the left half of the door.
Installing the door is actually just a matter of making sure everything is vertical, horizontal and square.
When the doors do not meet the walls correctly, they are planed down until they meet.
3/16 foam wind and rain stripping occupies any remaining space between the door edge and the garage door opening.
The threshold is a stone, metal, or wood that forms the bottom of the doorway.
It is a raised surface that allows the door to be above other surfaces so that the door can clear the floor or ground.
This is also a surface of the door creating the weather.
In my case I need something to seal the bottom of the door but it has to be high too.
Unfortunately we had a severe frost that caused the concrete apron in the garage and the black top of the driveway to crack, rising nearly 2 inch.
To be able to open the door, they need to be able to clear the top of the sidewalk.
Before building the wooden frame of the door, I measured it with a tape measure and a level to see what was needed to clean up the expanded pavement.
As it happens, the measurement is very close to one and a half inches, which is the thickness of the normal 2x4.
So, the threshold is just a 2x4, laid on concrete.
I measured the width of the garage door opening, about 9 feet, and I also noticed that I had to leave a gap around the existing garage door weatherstripping.
I took the pressure off.
Handle 2x4 to length and then cut a notch at each end with a clamp saw.
Next, I put 2x4 in the right position, hammer it down, rub-
Install it in place.
A caulking agent can prevent air penetration below.
The door swings to the right at the top of 2x4.
With the door, I can work on the weather forecast now.
Unfortunately, my various blockages are not good for the weather that goes straight and seamless --
I want to use the peel.
To fix this, I installed an internal frame that matches the outside door. (See Next Step. )
With the internal framework, I have one.
The thickness of the seal is continuous.
I cut a piece of Cedar about 3/4 inches wide, half the width of both doors.
I screwed it to 2x4 and set aside a small gap for the foam wind and rain stripping.
Then I applied myself.
Adhesive foam on the front of the cedar strip.
Moving to the second half of the door, I realized it would be better to install the foam on the side of the door.
This will prevent the foam from being damaged every time the car exceeds the threshold.
Good sealing on both sides of the door.
In the future, I will compare the two to see if there is an advantage in one particular installation location or another.
In all my projects, I always study in building.
Due to budget, available materials, or other constraints, projects often change from beginning to end.
I originally planned to simply use 1x6 Wood as an outer frame.
I will use cut-
Fall off it as a barrier to strengthen the inner corner.
Finally, I have got quite a bit of flat wood trim from another project.
I will cover the inner edge of the acrylic with this decoration.
However, the decoration does not match the thickness and width of the corner block, and the addition of wind and rain stripping suddenly becomes complicated.
To get a good sealing edge, I really want the entire back of the door to be a smooth surface.
Because of this, I decided to completely cancel my original block and trim plan, instead using 1x6 Wood at the back of the door.
It will add some weight and cost, but the door will also be harder and look better.
I purchased the extra wood from the logging ground and cut the board again to the right size.
This time I shortened the vertical plate and lengthened the horizontal plate, so that the internal and external plates overlap at the corners.
This is a very solid corner joint.
I removed the corner blocks and screwed the boards in their positions with a length of 1x6.
For the MID Board, I tear it in half again and put it on the table
I saw it, but make sure it'scenter cut.
This creates a lip for a door and lets them all close.
It also creates a great location for thin wind and rain stripping.
The door is closed by a pair of barrel bolts mounted on the west half of the door.
The door overlaps with the other so that the two doors are closed by fixing only one door.
One barrel bolt into the door frame and the other into the threshold.
A very important part of this project is that it is air. TIGHT!
If cold air comes in too, the sun is not helping!
I bought a windshield commonly used in garage doors.
It is 7 feet long.
This material is a rigid decorative plate with a wide rubber flap.
The decoration is nailed or screwed to the side of the garage door opening, and the rubber baffle is just pressed on the closed door.
I bought 4 pieces, 1 on each side, 2 on the opposite side, how long is 7 feet.
I will not use this at the bottom of the door because driving the car at the top of the door will tear the rubber baffle.
This material happens to be a little wider than the existing garage door windshield.
I narrowed it down to the right place. saw.
Although it looks like wood, it is actually a plastic that is very easy to cut with any saw.
I cut the wind and rain Peel very long, press the rubber lip on the Sun Door, press the "wood" Trim side on the garage door opening and screw it in place.
I repeated it on the other side and two on the top.
In the corner of the top, the rigid part of the wind and rain stripping can be docked with each other.
This means that the rubber flaps overlap and are completely sealed into the corners.
At the bottom of the door I applied myself
Adhesive foam wind and rain peel to the front of 1x1 under pressure-treated 2x4.
Once all the weather is ready, I can feel that there is no more air --
Move through the door.
However, the organic glass itself is very cold.
Not only that, the moisture in the air will also fog and freeze directly inside the plexiglass.
Since I have the full frame on the back of the door, it gives me the space to install the window insulator kit.
I bought a terrace. door-
Size kit including shrinkage
Plastic and doublesided tape.
I put the tape on the edge of the door, pressed the plastic on it, then contracted until taught with a hairdryer.
The extra plastic layer is very clear compared to the plexiglass, adding to the heat insulation value.
How much heat does a window or door like this really add to the building?
It is widely believed that the energy of sunlight is about 1,000 watts per square meter.
With this information, we can calculate how much heat energy a building can absorb.
Electricity production: I measured the area of the glass window and converted it into square meters.
This gave me 4.
15 square meters.
Next, we subtract the system loss.
I know from the spec sheet that the transmission ratio of the plexiglass is 92%. 4,150 x .
92 = 3,818 Watts.
There will also be additional loss of internal heat
Shrink layer, though I don't have any specific data for that particular material.
If it does have the same transmittance as the plexiglass, it would be another 8% loss. (3818 x . 92 = 3,513. (
Rounded up to the nearest Watt. )
This means that the sun shining through the window is equal to 3,500 watts.
These two electric heaters of more than 1500 watts are running at full capacity!
Please note that the loss is very small for passive solar energy.
No loss of pump, fan or other equipment.
Although I like PV, the normal PV solar panel can only capture and convert 15-
20% of solar energy
Interestingly, in a sunny winter, my photovoltaic panels can generate more than 4,000 watts of electricity, but use a larger surface area and pay a bigger economic price!
At this point, we know how much energy can be generated, but we also need to know the average sunshine time at this intensity to calculate the total energy.
A great tool for solar computing is the PV Watt calculator for the National Renewable Energy Laboratory.
It is usually used for photovoltaic (PV calculation)
But in this case, we will use it to check the total solar radiation in the winter in my area.
Using these numbers, I ran some multiplication operations in the spreadsheet and found that my passive solar garage door can generate energy equivalent to 1. 8 mega-watt-
Energy for a few hours during the heating season.
If I had to pay the electricity bill (
Otherwise I will have to heat the garage like this)at a cost of $.
At 013 KW, it will reach just over $240.
This door should save me about $240 a year in winter, but how much did I spend to build it?
Budget: all my self-paid expenses just exceeded $500.
See budget images for more information.
The biggest overhead is wood and plexiglass.
Cheaper materials could have saved costs.
The wood I use is of good quality material. It was pre-
Very straight and square.
However, it is easy for a person to use the carefully selected ordinary wood.
Replaced by plexiglass, double wall polycarbonate can also be selected.
It is durable and costs about half of it, but there is not that much light.
The field of view of plexiglass is also better than that of polycarbonate.
Compared to the savings in heating costs, this means that the passive sun will pay for itself in more than two winters.
If I use cheaper material, I may have it pay for it myself in one winter.
However, I like that the exterior of the door has a nice finish right away, and I don't have to try painting in the winter either, and I have to say that the day is priceless.
I can't really tell you how good it is to do a project indoors in the winter sun.
The diffuse light reflected from the concrete floor and white walls is filled with the entire garage workshop and does not require electrical lighting.
So far, I have not scientifically studied the temperature fluctuations in the garage.
A sunny winter at 18 degrees Fahrenheit
Outside, it reached 48 degrees inside.
If I choose to build a glass door and cross another overhead garage door, my heat will double. AUTOMATION?
My system relies on me to open the door above my head on a sunny morning.
This is a manual door, but there is an automatic garage door opener on the other side.
On that side I can open the garage door remotely from the house.
Some garage door openers now also interface with the entire house automation system.
Depending on the timer, and even the weather data investigated from the internet, it is difficult to automatically open the garage door in the morning. Greenhouse seeds
Starting inside the passive solar door will also be an ideal place for spring to start seeds.
The sun warms the potted soil to promote germination, while the seedlings are protected from wind and low temperatures. SHINE ON!
Solar energy is a great thing.
It can be used to generate electricity, to make hot water or to heat the house.
With perfect weather records and location information, we can accurately predict how much energy we can create.
Using simple, low-tech materials, such as a piece of glass, we can control the sun!
This project is just part of my entire DIY garage.
To learn about solar PV systems, visit: also get to know my project on my clean traffic blog 300MPG. org.
Subscribe if you like my YouTube videos!
Continue charging until next time! -
Ben Nelson * on the vertical surface at sea level, the air quality is 1. 5, etc.
Standard test conditions.
Your mileage may vary.