Rendezvous of the sun and the moon - colored glass film
8: I woke up this morning to see the most terrible sight I might have ever imagined in Iran: the cloud.
It's only half a week away from the total solar eclipse, and the sky is covered with a thin but opaque layer of fluff, which may make our sight blurry.
Ironically, the real reason for the geographical expedition to choose Iran for a solar eclipse trip is NASA's forecast of 98% clear skies. -
Compared to about 50% or 80 people in Europe
Turkey has a few percent.
The first hope is that we are currently in Shiraz, not far from the Persian Gulf, about 550 miles south of Tehran.
Isfahan is located inland of the Zagros Mountains, where we will observe the solar eclipse.
It is much less likely to be cloudy.
Still, the scene scared our small group and we spent breakfast debating, half
Jokingly, can we consider flying back to Budapest. ------------
Shiraz is one of the oldest cities in the world;
There is a solid record of more than 25 centuries of complex trade societies.
Ruins of Persepolis, a two-century New Year holiday Palace under construction, were fired by Alexander the Great in 331. C.
About 30 miles north.
Further north is still the Persian empire born three centuries ago in pasarga.
There is not much to appreciate in these ruins, the once Sylvain landscape has now been baked and bare, but one will certainly have an impression of ancient times.
Places like New York or San Francisco-
Across North America, actually--
Shiraz is one of those places with Persian thoughts. -
Persian as a state of mind-
It has real meaning.
For example: Shir Raz, the city of mystery ".
It has been considered a gathering place for Nightingale, roses and poets for centuries.
Syrah grapes originated here and local wines are the favorite of poets/mystics such as Saadi, Hafez and Omar Haim.
Of course, the most powerful thing you can get these days isalcoholic beer.
There are 16 universities and 59,000 students in Shiraz.
More than half of them are women.
Quite a few of them seem to be poets. -
At least poetic temperament.
After watching the endless black stream, one will surely come to the same conclusion
The shrouded woman leaned over and cried on the Tomb of Hafez.
Hafez (1324 born) and Saadi (1210) both live, die and are buried here in Shiraz.
Between them, more or less represents the peak of Persian literature.
Saadi is a pragmatic writer who, like Shakespeare, has added a lot of oral expression to his culture.
Saadi wrote: "I complained that I had no shoes until I met someone who had no legs.
Or you have two ears and a mouth-
So it's better to listen twice before you talk.
"In short, he is filled with the phrase that parents use to torture their children.
On the other hand, Hafez is a lyrical mystic.
As a young man, he can recite the whole Quran, so there is the name "hafez", which literally means "the person who remembers ".
"A witty person in our tour group asked our cool guide Ali if he knew the word" forgotten person.
Ali replied: "This is actually very interesting . "
"The word, also from Arabic, is 'ensun '--
This also means "human ".
For it is said that all men once knew God and his teachings, but had forgotten them.
"There is a tradition in hafeizi's tomb, where visitors make a wish and feel free to open the poems collected by hafeizi and put their fingers on the page.
The wealth of a person is revealed in this way.
For such a omen, I used to be a fool. I strode to the small bookstore and found a "Hafez" in English ".
"I did the ceremony without delay and the result was as follows:" terse good morning, the Lord of day/has shown his light in the place of bulbulbuls trill's love
Lorne sings a serenade for Virgin flowers.
"This message strongly reminds me of Jabberwock, which seems to indicate that I have not had any relief in my struggle against jet lag.
There are many lovely mosques and tombs in Shiraz.
No doubt, the most beautiful thing is boghe-ye Shah-
E. Cheragh (I have only learned the Cheragh section ).
The history behind the respected characters in this shrinee.
The brother of the eighth grandson of the Prophet Muhammad) is very complicated, but he is called the King of lights, and is dead (or poisoned like his brother;
In Persia people never know) go back to 835.
Let me insert that for "ensun" like me, there is a lot of history to ignore if one is going to enjoy Iran.
Times, dates, deeds, sacks, siege, poisoning, temptation, Dynasty, Imam, Rama, eighth-grand-
The brothers and rulers named Xue Sisi are enough for you to throw the guide on the wall.
However, this frustration disappeared instantly, and with no shoes in place, it entered the place of Cherner.
On this trip, my friend Sam told me that he had seen the place in a movie called Baraka, but I couldn't imagine a movie doing that.
The entire interior is a complex mosaic of small mirrors, covering every inch of high walls and arched ceilings.
The chandeliers hung among them;
The morning light shoots in through colored glass.
Sam and I entered halfway.
Pray in the morning and stand there with open mouth.
It's like falling into a kaleidoscope full of diamonds.
I may stay there forever, but we suddenly find ourselves surrounded by hundreds of Iranian students.
A mirror can be seen every day, but there are two Americans-
This is the case now.
They gathered around us, opened the notebook and begged for a signature. Aug.
9: Shiraz market--
Not the main market, but the "nomadic" market. There, women from the countryside buy colorful costumes and lively decals "rusaris" (dress code is not very strict for women who have to milk)-
A cloth seller asked me about Iran.
"Is it our country," he asked, "as you can see from American newspapers," and I told him that is not the case.
From what I have experienced, Iran is one of the most hospitable countries on Earth.
In an hour, Sam and I were attracted to the free yogurt, by a clever and ironic 16-year-
Old (son who sells cloth) and provides food samples from our diners friend's plate at a local lunch party.
We are full of local people asking us questions and sincerely welcome us.
A person will never forget where he is-
Portraits of the Ayatollah can be seen everywhere, frowning on the beards of the masses ---
But there is no atmosphere of religious fanaticism or prejudice.
I bet Salman Rushdie can hang out on the bazaars without distractions.
On the other hand, this is not without any reaction.
In the mirror mosque, a man approached me and began to speak to me in Persian.
Ali explained that this person wants to know why the United States feels
Interference in the affairs of other countries is needed at present;
Why does it only support countries with commercial interests;
The idea of why a country like Iran or Cuba might pursue another system of government is so intolerable.
These are sharp questions, and I did my best to resolve them and answer them honestly.
I think at the end of our conversation, we were able to agree that the winds of change might blow, at least for Americans --
Relations with Iran are worrying.
More than 20,000 tourists are having a solar eclipse in Iran, and the number of visitors will continue to grow as the real season begins in the fall.
In 2002, the Asia Society of New York sponsored a huge art exhibition in the Persian savavi period (1502-1722).
Of course, the most important thing is that reformist President Hatami has been optimistic ---
He was elected with 70% of the vote.
There is no doubt that Iran is in a very exciting and delicate period.
It seems like the whole country is holding its breath and waiting to see what the final outcome of the student demonstrations will be on July.
In my first article, I briefly describe the contradictions inherent in Iranian social life;
Iranians are obsessed, attracted and disgusted with the United States and the West.
The word I used was contradictory, but the Iranians were more strict with themselves.
"We are a country of hypocrites," a fairly conservative person told me . ". "We know this.
But as the political tide changes, you will see more and more people coming to Hatami.
"People are tired of the inflexibility of religious laws, he advises and wants to see changes.
When I asked President Hatami why he did not take a stronger stance ---
Why did he give in to the supreme leader so quickly by condemning the protests-
My friend laughed.
Because he's smart.
"Changes must happen very slowly, very carefully," he said . ".
Things happen in Iran at their own pace and cannot be pushed forward.
If there is a wrong move, the whole reform process will collapse.
"During the solar eclipse, Iran could have kept itself safe and protected its doors with greater care.
In fact, the government allows thousands of Japanese and European tourists to enter the country ---
And our small American group. -
This is a sign that the fist of doubt may open.
Like I said to the man who forced me near the mosque: anything can happen.
If Hatami is gorbacev (or at least Kruschev) from Iran, I'm not surprised at all.
If so, the next U. S.
The president is likely to establish new diplomatic relations with the ancient and ingenious Persian civilization. ------------
It's quite late.
I sat in the traditional outdoor teahouse next to the Hafez Tomb, sipping the smoke from the Hubble telescope.
A traditional Persian water pipe.
The curious but unopposed gaze of the locals suggests that, despite occasional suffocation, I did not disappoint myself.
Indeed, it is such a moment that represents the soul of the journey: when a person leaves the tourist route and finds a niche of tranquility and contemplation.
Time flies slowly, and the essence of an unfamiliar culture is right around you, with no plans or tricks.
This is when one can imagine spending weeks or months in a city like Shiraz ---
Meet with the living poets to develop a true understanding of what is called their home.
When I pulled the smoke out of the tube, it sent out pleasant bubbles;
The tobacco has a lovely cherry flavor (or the scent of the water itself ).
The nearby tables are packed with reading newspapers, making crossword games (a daunting feat in Persian) and men and women chatting on tea and cake.
My laptop can tell at a glance how complicated Iran is.
I will be on an Iranian plane in a few hours. -
An old Soviet airliner was eliminated by Russian airlines in years of use. -
Travel north to Isfahan, where the Sun Meets the Moon. ISFAHAN, Iran --Aug.
10: during my trip to Iran, I have been reading a historical novel called Samarkand by Lebanese journalist Amin Marouf.
The book, set in the 11 th century of Persia, tells the story of the era of great poets --
The most turbulent years at the beginning and end of Isfahan.
Except for about half the wine, Omar of nishipur-
Although his views are near-heretical, he is supported by the royal family. -
Realizing the dream of establishing an observatory;
He has made great achievements in astronomy and astrology.
One of his goals is to accurately measure the length of the solar year.
Not only did he succeed, but the system he developed began to use in his own lifetime ---
March 21, 1079.
Maalouf wrote: "This officially carries the name of Sudan, but it is enough to mention in the streets, even in certain documents," such a year in the era of Omar Haim.
"His calendar is still in use today.
The legendary Haim Observatory no longer exists.
In the first four centuries before Isfahan became the baseline of Persian civilization, it was destroyed by invading Mongols.
Walk along the street of shadows, through 4-kilometer-
The long bazaar, in the shadow of the magnificent 17th-century Emam Mosque, realizes that in the Khayyam era all this (except for part of the bazaar) does not exist.
(Speaking of the market: On the morning of my walk for thousands of years --
Old maze, I hit a 16-year-
When I bargained for the local version of the milk Queen egg roll, an old boy forced me into the corner.
Like many young Iranian people, he is keen to practice English.
His opening remarks may be embarrassing. -
"Excuse me, why does the United States think it is the king of the world ? "-
But we soon began to discuss the charm of Isfahan.
After I proposed Isfahan to be more beautiful than Shiraz, I made a clear statement.
The boy frowned.
"Isfahan is more beautiful than Chicago," he said.
") The Persians of the Omar era have one thing in common with the present --
Iranians have a crush on heaven.
Nine centuries after Khayyam calculated for the Seljuk court, there was a solar eclipse in the city of Isfahan --crazy.
Main Boulevard, Chahar Bagh, eclipse banner line;
Posters are hung on each window showing the incredible blue dome of the Emam Mosque surrounded by the corona.
At 10 this morning, only 30 hours from the event, I walked into a "crazy" place ---
Islamic University comparable to yeshiva-
Immediately surrounded by a group of clergy wearing headscarves, they shouted excitedly to me, "Kusoof! Kusoof!
"This is a big expression I have heard these days.
As I know, the literal meaning is "the combination of the Sun and the Moon ".
"It's somewhere, our moon, moving relentlessly in the direction of the meeting on Wednesday.
All will happenm.
It will be the first time since the 1950 century to cross the Persian total eclipse, long before more than two total eclipses were born --
The population is in their thirties.
The solar eclipse is cyclical.
They appear in the same place every 35 years or so (the next place to darken the United States)S.
It will happen on 2017 ).
But in fact, this is the last such event of the millennium to give this special meaning, and visitors from all over the world gathered in this ancient caravan town to witness this spectacular scene.
We have met groups from Japan, Italy, Spain, France and the UK over the past week, but we seem to be the only Americans.
However, I did hear a strange rumor ---
I have no reason to believe this is untrue. -
This afternoon's flight from Tehran to Isfahan will carry a group of people including moon walker Neil Armstrong.
The horrible predictions of comet watchers, asteroid phobics, and dusty heretics like nochaudans have left the locals alone.
The imam I spoke to had no doubts about the eclipse.
However, they will recite special prayers, "as in the case of an earthquake.
"So people don't know what's going to happen.
I must admit, though,
The doomsday prophet chorus back in America is a bit annoying.
Indeed, nochadans, who often writes only one or two letters in the forecast, predicts that there will be a "King of Terror" coming from the sky tomorrow.
But a little bit of an error in explanation may give a very different meaning to his words.
After all, both he and rürke equate terror with a transcendental beauty.
As my astrologer friend Rob braiszny is more willing to think about, this millennium solar eclipse could bring a breakthrough in human consciousness.
I think there is enough reason to be hit on its path.
By the way, the weather is very good.
Not the cloud in the sky.
The only question is where to observe the eclipse.
Sanjay, the team leader of our geographical expedition team, seems inclined to drive out of town and camp on the countertop of a nearby mountain. He has a point;
It would be great to see the shadow of the Moon race crossing the landscape becoming 100 m.
A second sunset appears in each direction at the same time.
However, as far as my money is concerned, watching this phenomenon darken the crowded square in front of the 17th-century mosque in the city may be equally spectacular.
In any case, the level of excitement is growing every hour.
The strange thing is that the sun and the moon know nothing about it;
For the players themselves, this is nothing more than an unemotional dance of celestial mechanics. Aug.
11: Iran's longest overall cycle is 1 minute 58 seconds, but this number drops sharply as one person leaves the center line.
Isfahan is 15 miles away from the line, and the overall speed here is about 1 minute and 38 seconds.
After paying a large sum of money to drag the camera and telescope to the other side of the world, many geographic customers are eager to travel in the barren Southwest, which is understandable and they waste as much as possible
I stayed in Isfahan and camped in the square of Imam homini.
Built in the vast square 1612--
There are fountains and craft shops--
It was once the center of the Persian Safavi Dynasty.
When I stood by the fountain in front of the cream
The colorful dome of the "Women's Mosque", the minaret of the mosquee-
Imam gateway is looming on my left.
Behind them, the rambling sun burns in the afternoon haze.
There are a few fluffy clouds floating nearby, providing an unwanted suspense. At about 3:15 --
The moment of "first contact" between the sun and the moon ---
200 or 300 people gathered in the shadow of the mosque made a noise.
Although it was crowded, it was not as crowded as I thought.
I was wondering if everyone really escaped the plain in order to pursue a longer period of timeLong lasting shadow
The situation changed quickly. By 4:15 --
15 minutes before all. -
The square is packed with thousands of locals, most of whom are too young to remember the last solar eclipse here 45 years ago.
Television and Radio in Iran have been on alert-
Warnings and instructions every 10 minutes--
No shadow box or mass, no one is seen
Made sun viewer.
Some people designed clever devices to watch the sparse Sun.
The simplest and most effective is the small mirror, which throws images of the new moon on the walls of mosques and palaces.
Let me remind you that the new moon is a symbol of Islam, and I suspect that it has lost its symbolism in the crowd.
(I know that the instructions on Iranian television may be a bit too alarmist;
In fact, many people hide at home and believe that they will be blind for life as long as they look at this phenomenon.
Taxi driver who took me to the Internet
For example, the cafe I wrote this article had a solar eclipse in the shower.
) The atmosphere was full of energy and dizzy.
This is probably the closest place in Iran to Woodstock.
Shirts, high-priced soft drinks and more.
There are several distinct differences: the mats woven on the grass by devout Muslims, who bow down to ministers and recite appropriate prayers;
A small, spontaneous, very shortlived anti-
American demonstrations broke out near the palace.
The women's mosque is known for changing colors a day.
In the last five minutes of the Sun, the dome hurried through the whole day ---
First Peach, then honey, then Amber.
With the darkness of the world, there is a thrill of fear in the square.
Thirty seconds before the start of the whole, a collective cry began to rise from the crowd and reached a fanatical climax.
I think I shouted at myself when the last ray of sunshine flashed.
There was a strange pattern of diffraction on the ground, and the sun disappeared behind the moon.
This is extraordinary, unparalleled grandeur.
Venus burns near the zenith, and the cooperative cloud carries winedark glow.
The automatic lights on the spires are flashing. A mane-
Just like the crown is frantically twisted under the sun, bright red bumps dance on its edge.
I try to observe the effect with a telescope, but this is not possible;
It was my first solar eclipse, and my hands trembled involuntarily.
Suddenly, there was an eternal silence.
Then, from all directions, there was a familiar expression of joy, reverence and awe in Persian: "O Allah!
"How wonderful God's will is!
I think there is never a more real language than this. Ninety-
8 seconds is not long.
When we didn't know it, Bailey's beads flashed on the mysterious disk, and a sun appeared on the southeast edge of the moon.
In an instant, the square was flooded with light.
The impression I get is that people can't decide whether to cheer or groan.
Our collective moment is over.
Nothing can stop us from doing business as usual.
However, we share something unusual, something that is hard to describe and hard to believe.
I was screened out from the square with thousands of Iranian men, women and children, shaking hands and slapping back and feeling the unity that the moon landing, Super Bowl or earthquake usually brings.
Somehow the news from Iran will never read the same to me again.