solar thermal particle panel - polycarbonate sheet online
I 've been wondering how to make a cheap solar panel.
Like this note, I chose plastic.
There is a big problem with making solar panels in plastic. Overheating.
In short, the problem is that if plastic solar panels are built like traditional solar panels, they cannot shut themselves down if they start to overheat.
You can't just paint the plastic board black and put some glass windows on it.
If you stop removing heat from the panel and the panel is made of plastic, it will eventually soften or melt.
Rob acknowledged this in his instructions: "Because the whole collector is made of plastic, the temperature should not be too high, otherwise the temperature will soften and may leak, which is very good80 degrees C (176 degrees F)
It's about limits.
Don't you think the weather will be so hot? Think again. . . .
So this may not be the actual design of the residential installation "The question is how to turn off the solar panels.
If you can solve the problem, then the solar panels can be built in plastic and the cost is reduced to the point where everyone can afford it. (i. e.
$1000 to $200 per group)
Why is this important?
Because it's heating our home. air and water)
Most of the energy we consume at home.
If solar panels are cheap, we can use them to heat our house and save billions of dollars a year.
That's where I came from.
I would like to find a way to make solar panels with commonly used materials and have it compete with commercial systems.
The design I propose may or may not be the answer, but the benefits of our society can be great if the instructable community can work with me to solve this problem.
Take a look at the blog I created for this idea for more information and make updates with updates.
Blue Sky, Alexei, until I get the chance to redo the numbers (
Maybe a week or so)
For any user who wants to make this panel: Do not use polycarbonate!
It turns out that this plastic will degrade when exposed to hot water for a long time.
Based on comments from some users, I looked at the Coroplast that is actually polypropylene plastic.
Long story short, coroplast is cheaper and more waterresistant (
And easy to recycle.
There is not even any question about what is a better choice.
However, you have to heat-
Welding the manifold because polypropylene is not easy to glue.
Read on Wikipedia.
Until I have time to test, unless you want to give it a try, I suggest you think about the idea and come up with more ways to make it better.
We can obviously do a lot!
I went through some failed attempts before building a valid panel.
Unfortunately, raw materials are not cheap because you have to buy them in bulk.
I have done this and there are a lot of remaining particles and screens.
If outside readers want to make a panel like this on their own and don't want to buy bulk material, please contact me and I will consider setting up an Ebay store to sell the excess mesh and carbonated silicon particles I have.
You need:> double-
Polyester board for wall surface.
I used 5/8, but I think it would be better if you used the 1/4 table.
It's cheaper and may do better.
I found a local supplier for the Macrolux panel.
You must find a local supplier.
They have 4 sheets for x8.
> 65 micron silicon carbonate particles.
Particles need about 65 microns, black, as non-
React with water or ethylene glycol as much as possible.
It's a bit difficult to find these particles because I need them in advance
It is screened into very small size.
Silicon carbonate is used in the grinding industry, with 25-pound bags to choose from.
You only need a few cups, so please contact me if you want to buy something I left behind.
I bought it here.
> 40 micron metal mesh.
Again, there are a lot more minimum orders here than you need.
Read this instructable and you will see how much you need depending on the idea of your panel.
Please contact me if you are interested and I can try to add some bars on Ebay.
> Acrylic plastic sheet or polycarbonate.
Again, read this Instructure to find out how much you need as it depends on the thickness of the panel.
> Hot gun> table or skill saw (not shown)
> Screwdriver> metal sheet cutting machine> plastic cement> plastic epoxy resin> masking tape> Small Funnel (
Or just do one)
Don't even bother with silicone.
It won't work.
I tried cutting the panel with a table saw and a skill saw. Both work.
I would highly recommend sacrificing a bit of the panel for testing.
I think it is feasible to make 4 2'x4 'pieces from a single 4'x8' piece.
Cut the wire mesh into a bar about 3/4 'wide with a metal sheet cutter.
This step is just to fix the metal strip so that the metal strip does not move when you use a hot gun and a screwdriver to melt the metal strip into the panel. See (1)
In the chart in step 5.
I tried a lot of other ways before I solved this.
It works very concisely.
The idea here is to melt the screen to the top of the panel.
Refer to the chart and I will describe this as much as I can.
First, make sure the screen is bent around the panel (1).
Support the panel so you don't have to hold it.
Turn on the heating gun to heat it up.
When the metal mesh is pointed with a hot gun (2)
, Use a screwdriver to push the mesh into the panel by moving the screwdriver back and forth (3).
You will see the plastic penetrate into the grid.
I strongly recommend that you practice on several test pieces first.
However, if you do screw up, you can always turn off the end of the panel and try again.
If you heat too much, the panel will bend a little inward.
It is OK as long as it is not too serious, as the manifold will wrap around the end of the panel.
Once the metal cools on the test piece, try to peel the metal off.
It should be really hard to tear it off.
If so, you know you're doing the right thing.
Fill each channel with particles with a small funnel.
The screen should stick to the bottom of the panel, so these particles should not escape.
I will wear a mask or ventilator here to be careful.
I don't know if carbonated silicon particles are bad for you, but I don't want to put these things in my lungs.
I have two suggestions based on my experience.
First of all, use about 2 teaspoons if your panel is 4' high.
I used 1 tablespoon, too much.
Second, make sure to measure it fairly carefully so that all channels get the same amount of particles. Repeat steps 3-
5 at the top of the panel.
Now, you should have a 2 'x4 'double siding that melts at the top and bottom by two 45 micron metal nets, capturing 2 teaspoons of 65 microns of carbonated silicon particles in the Channel
We need to build the top and bottom manifold now.
This is the channel where we pass the water through the panel. . .
Enter from the bottom and from the top.
The next step is the steps I took, but in the process I found a better way.
I highly recommend you not to do what I do, jump to Step 12, where I show you how to make a manifold in one piece.
If you want to build this. . . innovate it!
I cut a few because I didn't fully understand that I could bend the acrylic.
2'' thick sheets and stick them together to form a "C" clip shape that can be seen from the enlarged side view in the figure.
Again, I suggest you take some time to learn how to bend the plastic.
That's much better.
However, here is a photo of what I did.
They are very self-explanatory.
I just cut the acrylic strips and stick them together with acrylic cement.
Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of this step, but I messed it up anyway.
If you build a manifold like this, I suggest you drill a hole in the front of the manifold instead of the side.
The problem is that drilling into the side causes the laminated acrylic strip to crack.
I picked up these accessories from the local hardware section of the pipe section.
Drill holes, screw in the fittings, then take out and apply the cement, then put it back in and seal it.
Cut some square pieces and stick to the side of the manifold with glue.
There will be a little gap between the panel side and the Side block.
This needs to be filled out.
I used silicone at first.
The problem is that now there is very little air flow inside the manifold and silicon needs to harden forever.
I ended up using a hot one.
It took only a few seconds for the melt gun to harden in 2 minutes and can go.
Impatient without waiting (like me).
I realize that there is a better way to do this after I build this.
Bend a piece of acrylic.
Less time, less bonding, less possibility of leakage or confusion.
I don't have experience in plastic before I do it, but there are really a lot of possibilities for men.
According to my survey, you can buy a plastic builder or do it yourself.
You have to make this wire heating element.
The price I found it here is much lower.
I think it might be better to use polyester instead of sealing the end with a glue gun like I did.
I'm not a plastic expert, though.
That's what I'm going to do for the next release.
As you can see, my panel is not actually 2'x4 '.
I went through a lot of failed attempts before I started working, I used smaller parts so I could make the panel I bought, long enough for me to get it done.
It turned out to be a good idea.
I went through five panels before I got the design I showed you here. So. . .
Learn from my mistakes!
Hang it on the hose to see if it works.
Be sure to connect the bottom input.
Water needs to flow up through the panel.
When you open the water, the particles should be dispersed and turn the panel Black.
When you turn off the water, the particles settle down and the panel turns black.
Why is this important? (See the intro.
Don't you understand?
Go and see what I have there on my website)
Here is a video of me testing the first panel.
If you have set up a panel with no leaks, congratulate you!
I said this because my first panel was a bit leaking so I wouldn't bother to insulate it.
However, I think it should be easy.
Just put some foam on the back and another double layer foam
Coat the wall on the front and wrap the whole thing with fiberglass.
There are a lot of tutorials here, but please keep an eye on it as I plan to do so.