that's gold inside those spiny creatures from local waters - perforated plastic sheet
For an American, the name Santa Barbara may prompt casual images in soap operas.
People from Japan are more likely to think of uni.
Yes, sea urchin fish.
It could be a surprise for most local residents, but some of the world's most popular universities are harvested near their shores.
Standing at Staten Wharf, you can see the dim outline of the Northern Straits islands in the distance: San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz and Anacapa.
Sea urchins come from there.
In the huge Tsukiji fish market outside Tokyo, the University of Santa Barbara often brings the highest auction price, second only to the rare white fish in Hokkaido, Japan.
These are not purple sea urchins familiar with tides. poolers (
But the rare red sea urchins (S. franciscanus).
They were found in deeper waters. -
From 30 to 90 feet--
Around the kelp forest on which they live.
Sea urchins look nothing but delicious;
Their shells are barbed.
But every urchin has five fish in his stomach.
These things melt on the tongue, almost to the degree of trembling, releasing a pure taste of the ocean.
These are highly valued by sushi lovers.
Sea urchins taken from the ocean around the island near Santa Barbara are hand harvested by divers and then loaded onto the ship for processing on the mainland.
Most of the best went to the Hashimoto Bridge, a mother. and-
An industrial park in Ventura is run by pop operated by Naoto Kan and qiaobenzhi.
From the ship, they were transported directly by truck to marijuana in large plastic boxes of fenced size.
All the work was handled by eight workers.
One at a time, open the shell with a tool that looks like a strange gardening device-
A handle shovel with a pair of sharp triangular blades that will open when squeezed.
The point suddenly appeared in the center of a urchin and broke the shell.
The blade then separates half and reveals delicate fish seeds without damage.
The smell of the sea is in the air.
Roe is carefully separated from the housing and placed in a perforated plastic tray.
It is so soft and careless handling does not hurt it as much as it is completely crushed.
These trays are then immersed in salt water, in salt water, and each fish roe is washed repeatedly by hand to remove any additional material.
At this point, it is difficult to distinguish one roe from the other.
It was not until after they had soaked in the solution of salt water and waterless potassium alum for a few hours that their color began to appear.
The correct color is critical to the grading of uni.
At this point in the season, as many as half of the fish have dark, gray castings.
These are discarded immediately;
They will be bitter and can't sell (
In autumn, these will be much less at the peak of the season).
From dark yellow to pumpkin, good fish have a wide range of colors --y orange.
Naoto Kan prefers the latter, saying the lighter uni tastes less.
Roe through the first cut will get a more careful check.
He looked for a range of things, says Mr. bridge: a good university is like the tongue of a kitten, full with nipples.
The shape is well defined and firm and there is no moisture display on the top.
'The good fish is bright for it, 'said Mr. bridge.
Three of his crew members were trusted to have difficulty scoring at the University.
When they carefully arranged the fish on wooden pallets with a small spoon, they quickly sorted it out.
Hashimoto only sells two grades A and B.
Most of us have only tasted the taste of college.
Almost all A-level universities are shipped to Japan overnight, where it gets the highest price from the most demanding customers.
In a Japanese magazine, Mr. bridge proudly features a sushi master.
"Look here," he said, pointing to a tray in the corner of a colored photo, "That's my college.
"Despite the popularity of sea urchins in Santa Barbara, the industry is still a small industry.
The entire American harvest last year brought only $26. 5 million (
Sea urchins are harvested on both the West Coast and Maine).
The catch in the North Channel Islands is about $2.
2003 7 million.
If it is an agricultural product, it will lead it ahead of flower seeds in terms of the county's income. (
By contrast, strawberries cost $0. 115 billion and broccoli $100 million. )
This is actually very appropriate, as Mr. bridge often compares his university to flower arrangement.
It is so subtle, he says, that it must be handled with care, that it cannot be exposed to the air, that it must be kept in the water so that it will live.
Even for chefs in Southern California, it's hard to find uni in the market.
In most mainstream groceries, you won't see it next to the farmed salmon.
But you will find out. -
A lot more--
Good Japanese shop.
There are a lot of things in Marukai and Mitsuwa.
There, it is hidden next to other sushi ingredients, neatly arranged on traditional shallow wooden pallets packed in very sterile places --
Plastic foam and glass paper.
Depending on the location and time of your shopping, the price of a tray containing 1 range from $8 to $10.
5 to 2 ounces of sea urchins, enough for half a dozen diners.
The next challenge is to find a way to use it.
Sea urchin roe is traditionally simple to eat.
Sushi is served on Japanese sushi;
Around the Mediterranean Sea, a piece of lemon is on the bread.
Confident food like sea urchin roe, when used in other dishes, its incredible mouth --
The filling is missing.
It just disappears into the background.
I tried to make a sauce for grilled fish. -
Make the fish pure with olive oil and lemon juice.
It was delicious in itself, but it almost disappeared in the taste of the Thai apper fish I served.
The traditional Italian sea urchin pasta sauce made with tomatoes is even worse.
But I did have an idea between the two of them.
When heated, the sea urchins melt into a slightly buttery, slightly salty cream.
What if I use it in pasta sauce?
Hey, how about clam sauce?
Although uni mainly serves as a supporting role, it provides texture and taste depth, but the effect is very good.
When I called the water BBQ chef in the city center Michael ximarotti and my water sports master, he expressed sympathy.
He said he tried a variety of sea urchins dishes, but rarely found a dish that improved on the original ingredients.
He said, "You know, there are some things you 'd better not worry about . "
Rare wisdom from young chefs.
I told him that I have been thinking about making a delicious milk freeze with sea urchins. -
Turn the fish pure with milk or cream, then set with a little gelatin.
It turned out that he provided such dishes only as part of the special tasting menu for the weekend.
He has finished it with cream coated with fresh mustard roots that are scraped onto a shark skin shredder.
And a large piece of caviar.
It's good, but it's expensive, he said. I'll say.
At home, I spit out the fish and added milk, as if I were starting to lose the taste of sea urchins.
I measured this and added the standard amount of softened gelatin (
I think about 1 teaspoon per cup of liquid as the starting point).
I poured this into the butter-coated mold and put it in the fridge.
Around that time, I realized that the $20 uni provided only two small parts of panna cotta ---
This is before considering the decoration or something.
For me, a dish must be spectacular in order to prove this achievement.
My suggestion is to go to the water BBQ and hope it is on the menu.
Creatively using uniStill for ideas, I called my old friend Michelle Richard, a chef at Citronelle, DC. C.
He's a former chef at the Los Angeles Citrus restaurant.
He thought not only because he was one of the most elegant and creative chefs I knew, but also because he had served me an unforgettable College dish.
My mom and I were at the Citrus shop a few years ago. in-
Luo, she ordered a Scotch whisky and lit a cigarette as soon as she arrived at the table.
Michelle let her know his disapproval and she let him know that she did not support his preferences.
A few minutes later, an entertainment company came here. -
A strong kind of sea gall meat that is eaten in a very prickly shell.
Revenge has never been so clever.
As it happens, Michelle has just made a sea urchin dish that he likes very much.
He would spit out the fish with a little cream, then put it on a "pasta", freeze a piece of squid and cut it into very thin slices.
Then he flashed.
Cook these "noodles" in butter and season them with uni puree.
I went to the market and I even found sliced squid in sanyue.
Back home, the dish took less time than reading the story.
Pure Michelle, innovative and elegant.
I would love to make a special dinner for these two types of pasta again.
But now that I find out how easy it is to buy sea urchins, I can't imagine having to wait for some big events to indulge myself.
Instead, I prefer simple pleasures in order to enjoy them often, especially Patience Gray, one of my favorite recipe writers, wrote in "Honey in weeds": "After work in summer ,[Apollo people]
Fix it with a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine to a rocky Cape often infested with sea urchins.
Take them off the rock under the water, and they slam them in itchy places --
Shells covered with knives or stones, empty them, and then, accompanied by jokes and laughter, dip some bread into shells to extract their juicy orange ovaries.
"* Where to buy the marukai Market, 1740 W. Artesia Blvd. , Gardena, (310)660-6300; 1420 S. Azusa Ave. West Covina ,(626)918-0825; 123 Onizuka St. , No.
Los Angeles (101)Little Tokyo ), (213)893-7200.
San Jin city, 665 Paularino Avenue. , Costa Mesa, (714)557-6699; 333 S. Alameda St. Los Angeles ,(213)687-6699;
3760 Centinela Avenue. Los Angeles ,(310)398-2113;
21515 West Street, Torrance, (310)782-0335; 515 W.
St Gabriel Las Tunas Avenue (626)457-2899.
* Sea urchin pasta, flap time: 25 minutes/Time: 6 salt2 tbsp olive oil 1 clove garlic, mincedDash chopped red pepper flakes (optional)
1 pound pasta 1 cup of white and 2 pound shell clams (Manila type)2 (2-ounce)
Only leaves are left, only all are left.
Cook a large pot of salt water.
At the same time, heat olive oil and garlic in a large frying pan with medium heat.
Taste a sea urchin.
If it looks bitter, add a pinch of red pepper to the frying pan.
Cook until the garlic is soft but not yellow for 2 to 3 minutes.
When the garlic softens, add the white wine to the frying pan to increase the heat to a high level.
Cook until the wine is reduced by about half, 4 to 5 minutes. 2.
Add clams and 1/2 plates of sea urchins to keep the best decor.
Cover and stir frequently for about 5 minutes until the clams are all open. 3.
When the sauce is cooked, add the spaghetti to the boiling water.
Cooked to close to al dente, soft but with a thin thread in the middle, about 7 minutes. 4.
When the clams open, remove the frying pan from the heat, stir, and break down the sea urchins as much as possible.
They should mix with the sauce. 5.
After the pasta is ready, drain and keep one
Half a cup of boiled water.
Add spaghetti and preserved cooking water to the sauce and place it at high temperatures.
Cook and stir until the sauce is slightly reduced for about 2 minutes.
Taste and add salt if needed. 6.
6 heated pasta bowls decorated with preserved sea urchins and several pieces of parsley leaves.
577 calories per serving;
45 grams of protein;
64 grams of carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 10 grams fat;
1 gram of saturated fat; 256 mg. cholesterol; 258 mg. sodium.
* Moyu pasta with uni sauc Total time: 10 min Service: 4 note: This is my adaptation of a dish from chef Michelle Richard, Washington DCC.
It is the Citronelle restaurant and former chef of Los Angeles Citrus restaurant.
Sliced squid can be found at seafood counters in many Japanese markets.
It may be labeled ika somen.
If you can't find one, buy one. half-
Cut off a pound of squid and make it into a flat plate.
Freeze the squid until it is almost solid (about an hour)
Then cut it into very thin strips with a very sharp knife.
This sauce can also be used for real pasta. 2 (2-ounce)
Half teaspoon sea urchinsand-
1 tablespoon butter 1/2 pound squid cut into very thin stripes 1 teaspoon cut off fragrant cutt1.
First, prepare the sauce.
In a small mixer or food processor container, place sea urchins and half-and-half.
Add a few drops of lemon juice, try it, and add a few drops if necessary. Set aside. 2.
Melt the butter in a frying pan at high temperatures.
Let the butter foam settle down.
When it hisses but has not yet begun to turn yellow, add the squid strip and keep cooking until the squid strip starts to harden for about 1 to 1/2 minutes.
Don't cook too much, or the squid will be very difficult to eat. 3.
Remove the frying pan from the heat and add about two
The third one in the sauce.
Stir on the squid.
Add cut leeks and add salt to taste.
Separate in 6 heated small plates and gently spoon on the remaining little sauce.
133 calories per serving;
14 grams of protein;
1 gram of carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 6 grams fat;
2 grams of saturated fat; 328 mg. cholesterol; 373 mg. sodium.