Professional aluminum metallized film manufacturer for over 13 years experience.

the grow machine - 3mm polycarbonate sheet

by:Cailong     2019-08-12
the grow machine  -  3mm polycarbonate sheet
This machine is an incubator for cultivating fungi.
It provides variable growth conditions to adapt to changes in species that have different processes during growth.
The machine allows the user to control the temperature, humidity and light, while providing a clean, pollution-free environment using the flow of layers.
The purpose of the growing machine is to grow silk-based substances, but it is also very possible to grow mushrooms. Why Mycelium?
As a material, the fungus has many ideal properties that are useful in the material world, such as flame retardant, waterproof, light weight, strong, and the most interesting thing for me is that it is used very little
The best thing is that if you throw it on a compost pile, it's also biodegradable, not only can it break down itself, other nutrients can also be recycled into soil rich in carbon and nitrogen to allow healthy plants to thrive.
In addition to being crucial in nature, it is also a very powerful material, a project that has not yet reached its full potential, so this project is to make the fungus aware, and make it easy to grow as a material for amateur biologists.
I hope this project will allow people to think more about what they consume and think about alternative ways of producing material products.
Why are these variables?
When it is not too cold, the natural habitat of the fungus is in dark and humid places, such as soil or stumps, such as frost, which will kill the fungus.
Therefore, by providing heat, humidity and lack of light, it is closest to imitating its natural habitat.
Clean air is not a imitation of nature, but because the purpose of the machine is to grow the material, we want to reduce the possibility of contaminants that may hinder the quality of the material.
Tool smartin joint and planerTable sawRouter ool Domino metal cutting saw herringbone saw for wood laser cutting water knife CNC cutting hand drill and machine for metal and wood Manual metal surface metal and woodTin snipsHand tap measuring tool: set squaretape enter punchesTerms I use: Before I get too involved in the production process, I will clarify several incubators/growth rooms I use a lot-
This is part of the machine that provides growth conditions for fungi, the part that windows contains, and growth will be carried out in a clean environment provided by the flow of layers.
The other side of the machine helps control panels and some overflow shelves for any fungus that is used to complete growth. Laminar Flow -
This is a combination of a high quality filter and blower that passes the air through the filter so that the space above the filter is cleaned from particles that may pollute the fungus.
In science, the term "flow" actually refers to the movement of air in a straight line, but in this case I call it a blower and a filter so that the incubator is not controlled by contaminants --
I call wiring, programmable micro-controllers, and appliances controllers, because this is the system that controls the growth conditions of the incubator.
One of the purposes of this project is to make fungal growth attractive so that more people are interested in trying the fungal world in the field of biological materials.
So this incubator is made of wood so that it can be regarded as a piece of furniture in our home.
For any bacterial geek like me, you will know that the fungus likes to grow on wood, which is one of the preferred substrates for its growth, but, we want to control the environment inside the incubator, to reduce the possibility of pollution.
If the interior of the incubator is wood, it will allow the spores to start sprouting structurally, which in turn may pollute the alternative species we are trying to grow.
Therefore, in order to eliminate this potential problem, the internal surface will be covered by aluminum in a later step, more in this regard.
I use oak because I am familiar with this material and I believe its strength, it will not be affected by moisture like other species, despite the help of aluminum profiles, when creating a high moisture environment, this may be a problem.
I also like the color of the oak tree.
The specific oak I use is white oak.
You can also choose cherries, ash, mahogany and teak suitable for wet conditions.
If you are in the Bay Area of California, you can visit the awesome wood shop where I picked up my wood from MacbeathsJointingOnce. Once I collect my wood, I
I marked the side I was welding with a pencil with scrawled lines so I could know if the blade was skimming the entire length of the wood;
Once all the pencils are gone, you will know that you have reached a flat surface.
The bed of this machine is set to 1/32.
In some cases, I need to take off a few layers in order to reach a flat surface.
I start with the width so I can use this wide surface as a guide to the height of the connection.
Once you have a connection on both sides (
Width 1, height 1)
You can move to the plane.
The plane works by lowering a range of cutting blades to the desired height, which means that the flat face you just connected is placed on a flat bed with the cutter from non-
Connect the wood to make sure they are parallel to each other.
I cut the wood profile to 40x40mm/1. 75x1.
75 inch a careful study of the situation related to other profiles and components being used has taken a small layer of wood (
Anywhere between 0. 3 -0. 6mm)
Once I reached the height of the 40mm I wanted and cut the profiles on the table and now I have a series of plates and I know they are 40mm deep, but 40mm batons that need to be cut into 40 x using chop saw and table saw.
At the moment, my planks are much longer than I need because I will use the saw through the thick wood and it will be safer if they are shorter planks.
I cut the length to the right size with a saw, and doing so when the wood is wide means I know that they are exactly the same size as they are cut with the same cut.
I cut all the lengths and I took them to the saw on the table.
Before I cut anything, I need to replace the blades to cut the hardwood floors, which usually have fewer but larger teeth.
I accurately measured the width from the blade to the fence with calipers.
Guide rail with feather board (
Move them each time the width changes)
I put the board through the blade at enough speed and pressure so that it doesn't burn the edge of the wood.
Repeat the process until I cut all the pieces down and there is a lot left (
If there is any wrong or bad Wood part)
The wooden frame is the main structure of the machine, so this is the first part of the building.
However, since there are many components that need to be added in a systematic way, you need to leave the glue of the frame to the end so that you can add parts and modify part items while working.
It is important that when I plan and order parts, my thought process is to see the form in reality so that I can actually measure the parts I estimate, this eliminates the waste of money and time on details and materials that may change when you make them, and fortunately for you, I have gone through the trials and tribulations for you, so it should be more direct.
The process of assembling the frame together is crucial to make sure I wire it for the glass and drill holes for the rack hook into the right part, because when there are so many parts, it's easy to confuse.
The main frame structure adopts 40x40mm white oak stick (
If you choose the same wood as me)
It was built with a docking joint.
These docking joints are reinforced with two dominoes per joint, which becomes very confusing when there are 27 pieces of wood gathered together to make the frame.
When I laid out my work, I set up a coding system and handled the parts in an organized way.
Choosing the right Domino knows that my work is 40x40mm and there will be up to 3 pieces of wood coming together at some intersections, and I chose a domino bolt of 30mm, it will insert Wood at 15mm.
This will be strong enough but will not interfere with the other nail coming in from the other side.
The matching peg is 5mm thick, so I insert the corresponding drill bit into the tool.
I set the stroke of the tool to 15mm so I can insert the hole into the peg.
I started laying out the front of the frame on a large table.
At each joint, I label the two pieces of wood in letters so that I can find the joints if they are mixed together.
I wrote some letters on the wood that will be covered with joints, mainly to let me know which part of the wood matches, which also helps to cover the pencil mark, they don't have to be polished.
I marked the center of the joint and used my setup square to draw a line on two pieces of wood as this is the reference line needed for the Domino tool.
It doesn't matter if the lines are perfect, because the most important thing is that the lines match each other so that domino peg can align the lines correctly.
I saw a clamping fixture with the scrap wood and the fence of the table so that I could safely and quickly place the parts without having to clamp each time.
Each joint has two dominoes, so I use the guide on the tool to set up two Heights, which are in the right place and are also easy to switch.
For the lower height I used the top of the meter and for the top height I used the "16" mark.
I did several tests before I started my work.
I started with the lower height of all the parts, used my fixture to quickly go through the cut, and then, again, I went through a cut on the height of the top, this eliminates the need to switch heights for each piece of work.
This is the most effective way to cut.
Once I made the cut for the first part of the frame, I used the mallet to insert the nail and connect the wood to check if I measured it correctly and if the joints were aligned as expected.
I repeated the process with the back of the frame, but coded with numbers instead of letters, so I know which side is which side.
Once I put the front and back sides together I put the connector in the right place so I can think of it as a complete part (
Currently everything on the table is on its side).
I then coded the joints again, using letters on the front and numbers on the back.
I marked the center line again and repeated the process of Domino cutting, cutting the top first and then the bottom.
This is a problem I'm facing that I foresee, but I'm not sure how to fix it until I see it with my own eyes.
There are up to three pieces of wood connections, which means there are two sets of dominoes colliding, and to build the frame with two sets of dominoes I have to cut down the next set to short-circuit, this way it doesn't conflict with the dominoes that collide, which works well, meaning that there are two dominoes through each joint and the structure is still strong.
I tested the frame to be assembled together as a whole, but there is still a lot to be done before gluing the frame together.
Let's go ahead and discuss the details needed to properly install other parts. There are a lot of components, all parts and details are combined and designed in a way that hides the parts that should be hidden to make everything look beautiful, clean and simple.
First of all, there is a rounded corner of the aluminum equal angle on the edge of the Hatch interior, in order for the profile to be connected to the upright, the edge it will cover needs a small chamfer.
This is done by using a router table and a chamfer bit with the correct radius.
It doesn't matter if you take it off too much because it will be covered with aluminum.
The best thing to use is to have bearings so you can run along this road without a fence.
Remember to mark the edges you need to keep with colored tape to chamfer the correct edges.
The carbon gathering panel on the side of the carbon gathering's routing groove incubator is located inside the frame, and the smart tone film has copper bars that need to be hidden, so the Grove needs to be cut into the wood column.
If you code a column with a clear system, such as a number or letter, and put a mark on the outer-facing edge to help you imagine where the cut needs to be, it will be very helpful. everything will be arranged.
Measure and mark which cuts need to be where, keep in mind that you have 2x6mm panels, 1x3mm panels and hinge doors.
See drawings showing different profiles that need to be cut.
Using a router table and a drill bit that matches the thickness of the polycarbonate, the diameter is ideally large because there is a little tolerance required.
I used 6mm polycarbonate and 6mm router bits, which means I have to do the first cut and then transfer it to the paper to get the extra gap.
You need to align the router bit correctly so that aluminum can meet the cutting edge that should be 17.
If you use the same thing as me.
We don't want to run the entire length of the cut out because we will see the routing forest at the top showing the end, but because we need to slide the polycarbonate into the frame we need to go in from the bottom.
The groove just needs to stop before the top so you can stop the movement should be 30-
35mm from the top.
If the groove is not far enough, you can always use the chisel a little more when you actually install the panel.
It takes 5mm deep to route the woods.
Always make a Test cut to check if the measurement is correct.
Use a feather board to fix the wood and remove part of the depth in the first cut, because the blade is too deep to take away all, remember that the sawdust has to go somewhere, so it is best to increase the depth every time.
Do all the contours at the same height at a time, then increase the height and do it again at the new height so you don't need to move the drill bit on.
Once you have a cut, check if the polycarbonated root is suitable for a little wiggle space, and remember that the smart film will also increase the thickness.
The top crossbar on the hatch side of the top crossbar also requires a groove to hold and hide copper bars and wires in smart tones.
This groove needs to be deeper in order to allow about 10mm deep wires.
Cut in increments so you can test how deep it takes to hide the wire, and you may also want to make the groove a little wider as the welding on the wire may stand out a little, this means that the panel will not slide in easily.
The top crossbar also requires a large champfer so that the wires on the panel can be hidden behind the aluminum corners.
Using the router bits with the champfer profile to cut the internal edges of the 4 top crossbars in increments, you will stick aluminum with double sided tape so that champfer needs to leave some surface area where the tape can stick, at the same time it is still important enough that the wires can run along the channel.
The panel of the incubation room is the reason for darkening the room.
They are made up of a polycarbonate panel with intelligent color, coated with a charged film on the internal surface, and when turned off, it blocks 96% of the light (opaque)
It blocks 33% of the light when it is turned on so you can see the inside (translucent -
Similar sunglasses)
This blocks some light, so the incubator provides a darker environment that mimics the natural habitat of fungi under the soil (
For most species).
You can order polycarbonate boards from most plastic suppliers.
The size of the door's opposite and adjacent two panels is 880x315mm, which adds an extra 5mm to the three sides of the channel that you have wired.
At the bottom, the panel is located at the top of the timber bar, not inside the passage.
The door panel is 840x270mm.
These are the same sizes of the smart shades you need to order, specifying the line at the top and taking into account the side that sticks to the inside of the window.
There is a copper band and an adhesive backing at the top of the film, the copper band should be hidden in the channel you cut on the router table, if it is not concealed enough, you may need to make your groove deeper.
The two wires welded on the copper strip need to be bent to extend along the top, again making sure you have enough space in the groove.
You can do these tests before you put the film down.
When you are ready to apply the film according to the instructions of the smart tone website here, the machine is designed to hide all the cables in the cavity between the incubation room and the open shelf, that is, where the insulation pad is hidden.
The cables of the smart tone panel extend along the top of the incubation room, hidden below the aluminum channel, these are the cables that need to be allowed in the frame section so that they can be hidden well.
There are also cables that extend from the control panel to the position where the relay and power supply are near the blower, which need to be mounted on holes in the frame.
When everything is put together, all the holes made for the cable should be invisible.
Cut grooves for smart shades. The wires for the smart tone panel will be well fitted to the champfered edge of the bar at the top of the frame just cut, under the aluminum profile so you can't see them, but they also need to bend the corners, so space needs to be provided for this situation.
When I modeled the 3D version, I didn't design the type of cut I needed because it was easier to see which parts needed to be removed in real life.
The best way is to place the panel in place and place the wire in that position, then mark the line on the wood stating what part needs to be taken away so that the wire is placed in a small pocket under the aluminum profile, it is possible to sit on the surface of the wood without a collision of wires.
It's an attempt and a mistake to take the material in an incremental way and test if you take enough of it and if it's in the right place.
The photo shows how it looks.
The control panel wiring the holes on the side of the control panel from the control panel down through the cavity need to be large enough to send the sensor into and run all the cables out of the Metro Mini panel.
In order to do this, you can use the chisel to slowly remove the material, which can be difficult, because the hole you need to make is the right angle to enter from a face upright in the wood, and then turn a corner, come out of the adjacent faces.
Using a hand drill, you can drill three large holes next to each hole, and then turn the three holes into a rectangular hole with a chisel.
Repeat this on the other side, use a fixed square to arrange the holes, deep enough to satisfy the first hole you make on the adjacent side.
Clean the hole you made with a chisel.
At the bottom where the wire needs to reach the power supply and the relay from the middle cavity, you need to drill a series of holes on the middle crossbar, similar to the previous steps of finishing the edges with three holes and a chisel, however, this time you want to go through this hole so that the wires can go straight to the bottom invisibly.
The only cable that can be seen will be the humidifier as it is a device that is actually located in the incubator.
The reason for cutting aluminum length aluminum on the inside edge is to ensure that the inside part of the incubator is sterile.
Wood is a material that looks beautiful, but the fungus likes to grow on it, so if the wood is exposed to the interior of the fungus growth, then we may have problems.
On the timber posts, the polyfat plate slots are in the routed Woods that meet the edges of the aluminum, so the size of the angle is important for the correct.
I used a 19mm angle with an internal size of 17.
The side is 5mm and will have 6mm polycarbonate and doors.
For the column in the center (
With a solid Board)
These materials have 3mm polycarbonate and need as much space as possible to hold the cavity between the solid plates (
For wiring and heat pads)
So the configuration of aluminum and pc is slightly different, look at the drawings, so I replaced an angle with a flat strip of 19mm.
I cut the aluminum angle I measured with a metal chop saw and marked it on the frame I just assembled to make sure it fits.
When I bought 4ft length aluminum, I could get enough aluminum on the short edge of the top.
Since the interior part of the angle has a radius, I need to route a radius at the edge of the wood so that it can be connected together, I used a very small router with bearings, so I don't need a fence to guide.
Because I see the end texture of the upright post, I need to let me not route the radius all the way to the end as I see it, as do the routing forest of the glass.
The pin that makes the shelf supports the aluminum pin of the shelf to be cut from an aluminum rod with a diameter of 7mm and a length of 25mm.
Push 7mm holes into the upright profile of the wood frame and will enter 10mm, so 15mm will be exposed to slide on the shelf.
I cut the pieces with the DoAll horizontal band saw.
Before I cut, I tilt the end with a round sand plate and finish the rough surface clean.
I measured 25mm with a tape measure and marked it with a scribe.
Using the laser guide rail on the horizontal band saw, I raise my eyes and it doesn't matter to know that the dimensions must be completely correct to the decimal point.
Once I did the cut, I repeated the process by first tilting the end, measuring and cutting.
To sort out the newly cut side, I put the little nail on the pliers and sanded the rough edges with sandpaper.
Drilling once I have all the pins I set up for drilling.
I checked where the right column needs holes and I have another coding system with tape to identify the column with hinges.
I stuck all the aluminum together,
I don't want to stick it together in case I need to remove it for unforeseen details in the future).
I use my tape measure, place the square and the Scribe pen in the position of the hole, and circle the mark with a wax pencil for easy observation.
I hit a mark hole to center the bit, then clamp it on the bed of the bit with my vise, I drilled a small hole with the counter sink bit first, for all the holes, then I drilled a 6.
The final size is 9mm holes.
I went through the aluminum profiles and oak and set the drill direction to stop at 10mm of the wood.
I fixed nails and aluminum corners with a strong adhesive for metal and wood.
The door frame is made of the same oak as the door frame, just like other panels around the incubator room, and its interior surface also has a smart tone film.
The general method of the door is to establish a thin frame that has a wiring channel for panel installation and drill a hole in the hinge side, so that the wire is closest to the wire can be hidden in the aluminum corner extending along the top.
The cut frame profile is 20x17mm and 17mm is the depth, so there is a gap between the door frame and the internal aluminum channel.
Since the dimensions are very similar, make sure which side is marked to avoid confusion.
Using a table saw and cutting the profile from the rest of your wood with a hardwood blade, you should have a length long enough.
The overall size of the frame is 870x300mm, allowing 5mm (2.
5mm per side)
This is tight because you want the space between the frame and the door to be very small, so there is very little loss of temperature and moisture.
Once you cut the part to the right thickness, you can cut the length.
Even if the door will have a diagonal corner, the wiring channel will be easier if you keep both ends straight and then diagonally connected, so you can see the lines that you will make the cut easier to align.
When cutting straight cut, you may want to add a few millimeters to consider the thickness of the oblique cutting blade.
This part of the channel is added to keep the polycarbonate and smart film panels in place.
Use the router table and router bits that match the thickness of the panel (
Remember to calculate the thickness of polyester and film together)
, This should add up to about 7mm, but it's better to add a little tolerance anywhere between 0. 5mm-1.
The 5mm should be enough.
The channel should be 5mm deep, although the wiring part is visible when I add the film to the polycarbonate, so I deepened the Top Channel by another 4mm.
The routing channel should be in the center of the configuration file, and I find that the best way to measure this is to add a pencil mark in the section where I need to cut and align the fence with my eyes, first try cutting, check the size is correct.
The Mitter angle mentioned above, the corner of the door is Mitter.
I use the Festool miter saw to set the position to 45 degrees, although you can also use a table saw with a 45 degree blade.
Measure the external length of the cut to match the size of the door (
Height 870mm, width 300mm).
Cutting on both sides should give you the right size of the door, as well as a neat diagonal angle to glue and fix.
Drill holes for wires the two wires from the smart tone panel should come out of the door frame in the upper right corner, so select the hole diameter you need to be 5mm.
If you drill holes from the inside so you can align the center with the center of the channel, this is the easiest.
Measure where the wire needs to exit (
This should be 10mm from the end of the work, but it's best to measure yourself)
And mark the position of your hole.
Drill holes using a column drill or hand drill and test if the wires are suitable.
Before assembling the frame, you need to remove a part of the hinge door frame, which is called the pin.
There are several ways to do this, but I 've found it easier and cleaner to use a mitchsaw with a height setting to prevent the blade from going down all the way.
First, I marked the door frame (the right one)
The hinges on the frame will be fixed to ensure that they are aligned.
Then I marked the size of the hinge, which is 50mm for me, but first measure your hinge and then use your size.
I made a shallow cut using the oblique cut saw (about 2mm deep)
Along the two outside lines of the hinge I just marked.
Each time the piece of wood is then moved to the width of the blade to remove the inner part of the hinge, the hinge should then be placed flush on the wood.
You can repeat the process on the main frame, keeping in mind that the inside edge of this piece of wood has an aluminum angle covering it, which means that you can cut the Mao from the edge to the edge.
If you remove the wood using a chisel, you can know more precisely where the hinge removes the wood.
Before gluing anything, put the frame together and make sure the panel is mounted in the channel you cut by clamping all four blocks around.
You may need to get your channel deeper if it's not appropriate.
When you know it fits you, you can stick it together, you can start with a long film and a short film and make a right angle corner, then sew the panel in and make sure you pass the wire through the hole.
Add wood glue at both ends of your start and fix them in place with a clip.
Add the panel to the channel and repeatedly glue and clamp to make sure you glue the corners at 90 degrees.
When you stick the door together to clamp, you can use the Brad gun to insert a small pin in the corner to fix the joint.
Let the door dry for a few hours or overnight.
The instructions for this step make the sound of the door installation very easy, in principle this is a simple process, but since the tolerances are small and everything is required to be at an absolute 100% right angle, this may mean you have some problems.
You may have to polish one or two edges or re-polish
Drill some holes to make the suspension position correct.
The basic principle when using piano hinges is that the center of the barrel or pin is consistent with the edge of the frame and door, so that the door rotates around the edge instead of around the edge for a larger radius, increased the unwanted movement of the door.
You should have a door ready to be installed in the mortised section of the door and hinge frame.
First check if the door is really suitable.
You should have 5mm permission.
It may have moved when we use solid wood, or at least not perfect to the nearest mm, so it's better to check first if it's appropriate.
Line up where the door part needs hinges.
Use the center punch to mark the center of each hole of the hinge.
Use the right drill bit with the diameter of the self-adhesive screw you are using (
This should be the same diameter of the screw shaft between threads)
And drill holes for the hinge, make sure not to go through the other side of the wood.
Repeat this for the two hinges on the door side, then you can fix the hinge in place with a self-adhesive screw.
Place the machine on its side, the hinge part is up, place the door in the proper position, align the hinge to the butt you removed on the frame.
You may find it easier to place the machine on the edge of the table and on the floor a block that is highly appropriate to keep the door in a hinge flush position.
Repeat the drilling process and screw the hinge in place with a self-tapping screw.
If you need to adjust anything on the door, this requires you to remove the screws, just know that the more you screw in and out, it will reduce the strength of the threads in the wood.
The door handle is a simple C-shaped pull handle with screws.
Measure and mark the position where the handle will be fixed on the door, and then drill the holes large enough so that the screws can pass through easily.
Depending on the type of screw used, it will be decided how to reverse the sink.
I used thumb screws so I drilled a big hole deep enough to flush the screws with the frame.
This machine is designed to provide a good growth environment, which means comfortable, warm, fairly high humidity and most of the darkness.
In order for the incubator to control these conditions, a control system is required to tell a particular device like a heat pad to turn on and off at certain times.
The system provides four kinds of replaceable electrical appliances;
The temperature is provided by 10 heating pads, the humidity is provided by a small humidifier, the light is turned on and off through the intelligent hue on the window, and the flow of air is controlled by opening and closing the blower.
The two simple controls are lamps and blowers, which are controlled by simple switches and relays.
The more complex part of the system is temperature and humidity, which are all controlled by a thermostat type system where the sensor reads the current temperature or humidity and is based on if the target value is below or above the current value.
The surface of the laser cutting surface control panel is acrylic resin, cut with a text laser, form a grove in the plastic, and then apply the acrylic paint to the Grove to form a blue text.
The hole of the potentiometer needs to be the correct diameter of the potentiometer knob you are using, and the cut-out of the LCD screen needs to be correct with the screen size.
The knob is made on a metal car bed and it is a conscious decision so I can learn to use the machine but it is not entirely necessary as you can order the very suitable knob online
The knob is made of 1 inch aluminum, facing and turning, then using the knurling tool, I formed knurling over the whole length, I will use the split tool to cut the knurling into individual knobs
I then processed a hole on the back and flipped it in Colette, facing the surface when I was there.
The line on the knob is formed on the manual Mill, using the inverted angle mill to create a channel from the middle to the edge.
In order for the knob to be firmly fixed on the potentiometer, I customized a shaft suitable for the nut using the lathe and allowed me to put the fixing screw into the shaft of the potentiometer.
To do this, I rotated an aluminum cylinder to 20mm and drilled a hole large enough to cover the nut that fixed the potentiometer.
Then I divided it into 8mm long.
Using the column drill bit, I drilled a hole that had enough clearance for the tapping drill that should correspond to m2. 5 set screw.
Then use 2 part epoxy to glue the two parts of the knob together and set it up for a few hours depending on the product you are using.
When drying, the knob can be fixed on the potentiometer with the Allen key.
The laminar flow is a device that makes the incubation room pollution-free (
Or at least significantly reduced)
It includes a high quality HEPA filter and a high power blower that pushes air through the filter into the incubation room.
The size of the filter and blower is a factor that controls the size of the machine, so if you get a different filter, you have to adjust the size to fit.
I ordered my filter and blower from the fungus. The filter is placed on the ledge, connecting the side plates under the incubator, these should be wooden strips that stand out enough, and all four edges of the filter can be placed on it, which should be around 1 inch or 25mm.
The position of these will be the height of the filter minus the size of the oak rod.
A piece of wood located in the middle of the filter cavity and blower space needs to have a hole cut where the air comes out of the blower, measure this, and then cut the hole with a jigsaw puzzle;
As long as the hole is the same size as the hole on the blower, it is not the key to being completely neat.
This piece of wood should be thick enough to support a heavy blower, and the thickness of about 3/4 is appropriate.
To fix the blower in place after cutting the hole, you need to put the threaded plug-in into the plywood, align with the hole on the blower, and use the center punch to make sure the hole is aligned.
By adding a threaded plug-in, you can remove the blower if needed.
The label of the panel repair is also cut on the spray machine, which is unnecessary, because I believe you can pass the pre-
Making metal labels with pre-drilled holes.
The label needs to be flat and there are holes on one side of the screw that will be permanently fixed on the frame and the holes on the other side will be aligned with the threaded plug-in entering the panel if you need, this will allow you to close this panel.
Open the panel on the side circumference and cut the panel on the table saw.
I used a thickness of 1/8 and set aside enough space for the label.
Fixed with magnets and steel sheets;
You can order a small class magnet for McMaster Carl, pre-made holes.
Drill holes for the self-tapping screws in the triangular position on the back of the panel so that the panel does not tilt, make sure not to drill and screw into the magnet.
The steel label can be purchased online, or it can be cut from a larger steel equal angle to a 1/2 label, with a hole on one side that can be screwed into the frame.
Place the steel label on the magnet and insert the panel into the position where the label is located (
This is not necessarily so accurate).
When the label is not connected to the magnet, through the pre-
Drill holes fix the labels in place.
Repeat this for all panels except the top panel.
This does not require a magnet as it needs to lift it off easily by pushing a corner down.
It can be placed on the same label without a magnet.
Place this panel flush with a wooden crossbar.
Electronics is a challenge because I have little experience or understanding of electronics before this project, and I think I have never heard of it in my science class at school.
However, electronic products are the main part of the project and the key to controlling the internal conditions of the incubator.
The variables controlled by the machine are temperature, humidity and light, as well as the opening and closing of the flow of layers.
The system is controlled by metro mini and works the same as the arduino uno, but smaller, with two extra pins, all of which are required for all devices.
Metro mini powered from the micro connector port and plugged the USB cable into the USB wall adapter because when I tested the power through the Vin pin on the board, I encountered a voltage spike, this power supply means that it will not connect to pins that will not interfere with any other device on the board.
All four devices are controlled by their respective relay switches.
The hair dryer and smart tone panel switch on from the control panel is simple, the temperature and humidity are controlled by the sensor that reads the current state, and tell metro mini to turn the device on or off depending on the target status set by the user on the control panel.
The temperature comes from a series of heat pads that run out of two 9 v power supplies.
To hide between the intermediate panels separating the incubator side and the storage side, the heat pad needs to be small.
The gap between the two panels is invisible for all cables as the wires need to extend from the top of the control panel to the bottom of the storage power supply.
Temperature system based on thermostat;
Set the target temperature, read the current temperature from the sensor, and if the current temperature is below the target temperature, the Metro mini will tell the relay to turn on the heat pad.
Humidity comes from an electric humidifier between the filter and the next shelf and I bought one from Amazon.
The system works the same as the temperature, just like a thermostat;
The sensor tells metro mini the current state and metro mini tells the relay to turn on or off according to the target humidity value of the potentiometer.
The humidifier you can buy online is usually equipped with a switch, which is used when the device is still plugged into the power supply, and some settings that you can switch.
This means that when the relay turns off the humidifier, the internal switch is reset and needs to be pressed every time the Metro mini tells the relay to turn on again, which is not ideal because it requires you to enter the incubation room, press your own switch.
To stop this, you have to turn on the electronics of the humidifier and add another relay in the section where the button is located and connect it to a pin on the Metro mini, in the code, you can tell the relay to turn on when the main relay is on, as if it pressed the on/off button electronically.
The light, temperature and humidity sensors are mounted in the center of the middle panel and enter the incubation room, and while conditions may change within the incubator, it is assumed that it will adjust itself to such a small space, so the middle of the space will be the most average reading.
The LCD screen uses a large number of pins, based on the example of Adafruit, the RGB is set to blue, using the last connection on the board, the two next to it are red and green, so if you want to set a specific color, you have to use a larger micro-controller when all pins are taken.
The Fritzing diagram shows a rough outline of how the wiring works, but this is just a reference line.
The code is set to the function of each device that enters the loop.
The function of the blower and lamp is straight forward, when the potentiometer passes through the threshold, turn the pin to high, and when it goes to low.
The temperature function is a bit complicated and it tells metro mini to read the target temperature from the already mapped potentiometer so that the start constraint of the potentiometer starts at the first temperature (20degrees)
The end constraint is the last temperature (30degrees)
Make the display on the LCD screen correspond to the mark on the dial.
Then start the sensor and make the reading. if the detected temperature is lower than the target temperature, the subway mini will tell the relay to turn on and turn on the heat pad. when the detected temperature matches the target temperature, these will be closed.
The humidity function is more complex because these values do not rise in a single increment and the display should correspond to the actual mark, so a loop reading Boolean value must be added, this Boolean value sets the parameter of the potentiometer value to represent a specific value, such as "if (
READ exactly> = 0.
& Read exactly
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